We've had an unexpectedly early winter in Michigan so I was unable to complete caulking on a window project which involved removal of trim and shutters. The whole area is covered with tarps to prevent rain and snow from seeping into the areas to be caulked.
So it seems as if either the areas must remain covered with tarps until warmer weather, or I gamble on getting a good warm day.
A Lowe's rep recommended GE Silicone II caulk; my father also prefers the Silicone II caulk, and he's particular about his caulk so I think I've chosen a good caulk.
The Lowe's rep said I needn't worry about temperatures with this particular caulk. But I checked with GE to be safe. A customer services advises this caulk can be used down to about 36 degrees ambient temperature. I'll rely on GE's advice.
But I was wondering what professional builders and contractors do to caulk during cold weather? Do they heat the area to be caulked, keep it warm with the use of heaters, or some other method? Or do they use postpone all caulking until warmer weather?
The GE rep told me that ammonia and methanol are the catalysts to activate the curing process and explained the effect of cold weather. Given that methanol is flammable, is any kind of heat (such as from a blow gun, hair dryer or portable heater) even safe?
Thanks for any suggestions. I've only caulked once before (several years ago), so I'm really a novice at caulking. I feel as though there's some trick to cold weather caulking that I might be missing.
This message has been edited. Last edited by: GardenSprite,
around these parts, it gets cold with capital and italic letters.
we replaced front and garage weather doors in Mom's house last winter during a 10 below spell.
didn't bother with the permanent caulk then, but used flexible rope caulk to keep the weevils and the blizzards out. when it warmed up in April, we came back, dug out the rope caulk, and used silicone.
interesting to see whether any of the tradesmen types on the board will say you could get away with the silicone II by caulking up, and letting escape heat trapped under the tarps, plastic, etc. keep the material just warm enough to properly cure and bond. I'd like the answer, too.
that is an excellent material you chose, by the way. if there is anything better, it's classified information and they'd have to shoot me if I found it.
This message has been edited. Last edited by: swschrad,
sig: if this is a new economy, how come they still want my old-fashioned money?
I understand this stuff is used to fill gaps in areas to be caulked that are greater than 1/2", which I've read is the maximum width that should be caulked. I did get some 1/2" and 5/8" strips because some of the channels to be caulked are too wide for just caulking.
If so, this is an option to consider. I'm sure some of the pros here will choke when I write this, but now I'm wondering if I couldn't just use duct tape to cover the vulnerable areas and then caulk in the spring.
I've just met with a contractor regarding some other repairs, and he expressed reservation on my use of tarps, indicating that they trap moisture and I could be creating a problem with their use.
This message has been edited. Last edited by: GardenSprite,
DAP makes a product that is calls Seal N Peel for temporary caulking, I used it to seal a drafty window sash for the winter and it is working great. Only major problem is the fumes are very very strong but the product is working great. You put it on then peel it off in the spring. Its sort of the same consistency of the sticky stuff thats on the back of a new credit card when you get it in the mail. Bought mine at Lowes but you can probably find it online. I do not know however what temperature you can use it in but it dries in about 2 minutes. May have to keep it warm until you use it as its not "liquidy" but more of a solid. Also its early december still, maybe we'll have one or two days still that its above 36, if so just get busy while you can. ohio area here.
Posts: 214 | Location: Ohio | Registered: Aug 06, 2007
When something build correctly, caulking should be for no more then for astetics. Counting on caulking to stop anything more then air leaks is a poor plan. Any caulking will fail over time. Silicone is great stuff but is a real mess to try and clean up and 100% silicone can not be painted. I use siliconized 50 year latex caulking so it can be painted and cleaned up with water. Read the tube before using and have whatever it suggest to clean it up with on hand. Only cut a tiny hole in the tip of the nozzle, far easer to have to add a little more caulking then have to wipe off the excess. Almost everyone uses a caulking gun incorrectly. Your suppost to only apply enough to fill the gap. There's no need to have it all over the outside of what your caulking. Only take out one tube at a time. The rest keep in a warm place for 24 hours before using. I wear two pairs or thin rubber gloves to keep it off of my hands. Using duct tape is the last thing you want to do. It will not peel off later without leaving a huge hard to clean stringy gooey mess.
Satarr, the DAP product sounded very appropriate, so I checked it out. Various reviews were good, noting however that it does have a strong odor. I called the DAP hot line to be sure I could use it in our cold Michigan weather and learned that it shouldn't be used below 40 degrees. So its weather tolerance is similar to the Silicone caulk I plan to use.
JoeCaption, I thought that caulking was to seal off joints from air and moisture penetration, but I do see that it does add a finished touch and improve apearance.
Unfortunately, this house was not built correctly in the 1970's, as we find every time we undertake a project.
Is the silicone 50 year latex caulking you used the same as the GE II silicone? It sounds like a good product and would certainly avoid recaulking as necessary.
The instructions on the Silicone II don't provide information on cleanup, so I posed this question to GE. The customer rep said that 91% rubbing alhocol should be used.
Your instructions on caulking are very helpful. I have done everything you've suggested and also wore a respirator.
Thanks to all for taking the time to offer suggestions.
"rope caulk" refers to Mortite brand rolled-up rope caulk, about 5 or 6 3/16 inch caulk strips wide and connected together. you tear down the strip for the width you figure you need, and press it in to fit. it is weathertight and sorta stays put unless you put it into and over a dusty mess.
it's a second cousin to window putty. it will harden in time, and eventually crack as window putty does, so I prefer to use it only as a temporary dressing until conditions permit applying a proper caulk under slight gun pressure.
sig: if this is a new economy, how come they still want my old-fashioned money?
