Does anyone have info on codes for basement window egress boxes? I'm looking at a home with some apparent damage and am wondering what it would cost to have it corrected in block or concrete. Any ideas?
The only code requirement would be if that window is used as a second means of egress from the basement living space. If so, then you need to maintain a 5.7 SF open area for egress.
If the window is just there to let in light and some air but not used for egress, then it can be any size that works for you. Beyond that, it should have some form of drain to let rainwater out and needs to be strong enough to hold back the soil. A masonry wall would be much better at this than the current wood.
That was certainly built poorly. It looks like it was pieced together with whatever was lying around. At least it is all pressure treated, but a single 2x4 across the top would have been much stronger than the current design.
That said, there are prefab ones for light and egress that might do the trick for you. Check here; http://www.bilco.com/foundatio...sults.asp?nav=10*130
Edited to hopefully correct the link.This message has been edited. Last edited by: Sparky617,
Any advice given here is general in nature and is not necessarily valid for your given area. If in doubt check with your local codes enforcement department for what is required when doing electrical, plumbing or structural work on your house. Permits may or may not be required in your area and home owners may not be able to DIY some tasks. I have no way of knowing if you have the skills needed to complete the tasks you are asking about, when in doubt seek professional assistance.
My advice may be worth exactly what you pay me for it. :-) For the record I did not stay in a Holiday Inn Express last night.
that Bilco link isn't working. I used them in both my egress window installs, this will show you the detail
availiable elsewhere also, of course. stack 'em up to learn how it works, take 'em down, dig your big-donkey hole next to the window and clear the dust and crud off the foundation wall, and lower in the sections.
what I did was mark the locations for the mount holes on the block after levelling the ground for the wells, drill for toggle bolts, assemble into the wells, reposition the assembly and push the toggles into the block. then I shot strips of polyurethane seal/adhesive, tightened the toggles slightly tight, dug the pit back on a slope away from the window, and backfilled with river rock. our sandy soil drains better than the weepers, so I let nature have the water.
next morning, tighten the toggle bolts hand tight against the set adhesive, and made sure the weatherproofing around the window wells was good. I did silicone the seals of the Bilco wells.
and it's good. there are covers availiable that let in light and keep out rain, flat covers. but since we know of heavy show in these parts, phooey, covers aren't going to work in winter. left 'em open. no leakages.
sig: if this is a new economy, how come they still want my old-fashioned money?
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