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Posted
We are installing Hardie lap siding. My wife and I are discussing if the nails are supposed to show or be hidden. Help!!! Cause the discussing may turn to just cussing soon.
 
Posts: 1 | Registered: Aug 27, 2008Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
JdN
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What do the Hardie installation brochures say about fasteners?


JdN
 
Posts: 7427 | Location: Elkader, IA, USA | Registered: Mar 07, 2004Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Select the instructions for your area here and follow them religiously...

http://jameshardie.com/homeowner/products_siding_hardie...y?openTab=jsnavLink4

The lap siding is typically installed using blind (hidden) nailing. You nail one inch down from the top and overlap the siding 1 1/4". Nailing down 1" keeps the nail hidden while still applying pressure against the bottom of the board to keep it snug against the one below. Be certain to use galvanized nails, preferably hot-dipped.

You can make a gauge for the overlap out of a piece of wood with notches to catch the bottom edge of the piece being installed and the one already installed below. This will help ensure a consistent overlap. Be sure to gauge within a couple of feet from where you are nailing as the board can sag or rise over its 12' length.

Be certain to keep your siding dry prior to installation. It can absorb moisture from the backside. This will cause it to expand slightly and make it harder to handle. A normal board will wobble when handled on edge; a wet board will also try to curl and break.

On the butt joints, I've done it both ways and prefer the use of felt paper or housewrap behind the joint to serve as flashing opposed to caulking the joint. I would flash it, let it sit a couple days before painting and add caulk to any butt joints that open up after installation.

I cut the siding with either a carbide tipped blade or, preferably, a blade designed for use with fiber cement board. Dewalt, Hitachi and MK Diamond make such blades. They aren't cheap but a wise investment. They also sell shears to cut with which eliminates the dust problem. I've never tried them.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Mike in Indiana,
 
Posts: 352 | Location: Southwestern Indiana | Registered: Dec 01, 2004Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
Picture of joecaption
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If you take the time to read all the warnings about breathing in the dust the shears will sound like a better idea. I have one and it works fine.
Make sure to paint each and every cut made in the material or it will soak up water and start to fall apart.


joecaption
 
Posts: 10929 | Location: Halieford VA | Registered: Jan 31, 2004Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
Picture of caretaker
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I can't emphasize what Mike in Indiana said about following their instructions religiously enough. My wife is principal at a school that did an addition four years ago and sided the entire school with James Hardie. Great stuff, but the builder didn't flash the nice 5/4 16" wide lower trim boards correctly, nor followed the ground clearance instructions. Now it is crumbling in areas and good luck getting restitution through the manufacturer. We are having to fight with the builder on it. Follow their instructions to the letter and things will be fine.
 
Posts: 164 | Location: Cavendish, VT | Registered: Dec 05, 2005Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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caretaker, can you describe in detail exactly what happened? This 16" trim board was horizontal and not flashed above? Did they caulk above it and not flash? How close to the ground are the problem areas and over what kind of surface? I have yet to see any failures and just curious about the circumstances. Thanks!
 
Posts: 352 | Location: Southwestern Indiana | Registered: Dec 01, 2004Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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