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            DIY Message Boards  Hop To Forum Categories  Home Improvement  Hop To Forums  General Home Improvement    locating furnace/hot water heater in basement
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        locating furnace/hot water heater in basement Sign In/Join 
        posted
        Hi,

        My forced air gas furnace needs an upgrade. It is located in the center of the house with the gas hot water heater. I would like to relocate both to a perimeter area to leave more room for a basement remodel. Would it be OK to locate them on a perimeter wall? No,I haven't called a contractor yet. I do have one in mind, but wanted to get some opinions.
        I have the choice of a wall completely below ground, by the washer/dryer area across from the wall where the air conditioner is located on the outside of the house. Or put it on the same wall as the air conditioner where it could sit in the corner of on wall below ground and another partially below ground. I know the concern would be ducting and the ventillation stack. I think that over by the washer/dryer is best because it is near the sewer clean out and the outside garage wall. It would also be nearer to the existing duct work and I think the ventillation stack could easily be run up that wall to the outside. Also the gas line is running along this area to the stove upstairs and the gas dryer downstairs. However there is only one cold air return in the center of the house upstairs in the hall. The house is currently a 3 bedroom ranch style, but I would like to add a bedroom/bath dormer room in the attic eventually. Family is growing.

        Thoughts? and Thank you.
         
        Posts: 1 | Registered: Jun 18, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
        Picture of Jaybee
        posted Hide Post
        Can't see any reason why this will not work. It's usually better to place gas-fired units closer to the exterior walls - makes for a shorter vent run. It could even save you some money if your existing units are forced-fan vent models and you replace with a non-powered vent due to a shorter vent run.

        You'll likely need to run some extra main supply and return ducts after moving the H/A unit as well as gas and water lines. But, if there is full access in the basement then this is a relatively minor expense. With replacing the unit for the future remodel you'll have these expenses anyway.

        Get your contractor in to iron out the details but no reason why it shouldn't work.

        Pet peeve of mine: It's a water heater. If it were a hot water heater then there would be no need for it to do anything.


        Jaybee
         
        Posts: 9084 | Location: Knoxville, Tennessee | Registered: Sep 27, 2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
        posted Hide Post
        If you have a chimney near the middle of your house, then you need the furnace and water heater located close to the chimney for proper drafting of the flue gas up the chimney. If you locate these appliances in the corners of your basement, the flue gas could very well cool down so much by the time it gets to the bottom of the chimneey that it won't draft properly up the chimney.



        Also, if I recall correctly, the plumbing code will require the smallest BTU appliance to be connected closest to the chimney and the largest BTU appliance furthest from the chimney, but they should all be located as close as possible for the best possible drafting.

        Talk to any HVAC contractor or chimney cleaning contractor and they'll be familiar with the local codes in your area regarding venting of your furnace and water heater flue gas.
         
        Posts: 1090 | Location: Winnipeg | Registered: Aug 29, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
        Picture of Jaybee
        posted Hide Post
        Since the Op is already upgrading his furnace, safe to assume that he'll be buying a new unit. At a 13 SEER minimum and probably higher, the 'chimney' is made of PVC and is designed to exit the exterior wall anywhere above ground level. New WH's work the same. Makes the exterior walls of the basement the best location for the shortest chimney run. Since it's a single level rancher, a single PVC tube that is chambered to provide intake air and exhaust can be run up the outside of the house to the roofline if needed although it can terminate anywhere above ground level.


        Jaybee
         
        Posts: 9084 | Location: Knoxville, Tennessee | Registered: Sep 27, 2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
        Picture of CommonwealthSparky
        posted Hide Post
        I was always taught one unit [heater, furnace, etc,] per flue. Anyone weight in on that...


        "Why isn't everyday Earth Day ?"
         
        Posts: 921 | Location: Central Pennsylvania | Registered: Jun 02, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
        Picture of Jaybee
        posted Hide Post
        quote:
        Originally posted by CommonwealthSparky:
        I was always taught one unit [heater, furnace, etc,] per flue. Anyone weight in on that...


        While logic says to do the install so that there is no chance of 'backfeeding' from one vent into another, I see it frequently enough that combining vents must be acceptable. These are in places that have had and passed inspections. As long as the vents are sized correctly and placed so that the exhaust flow works, then it should be OK.


        Jaybee
         
        Posts: 9084 | Location: Knoxville, Tennessee | Registered: Sep 27, 2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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