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Framing in garage door with curb wall.

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May 11, 2013, 03:33 PM
CW Hunter
Framing in garage door with curb wall.
First off, thanks for taking the time to look at this.

I'm going to frame in a garage door, but first I would like to continue the curb wall that surrounds the garage.

If I'm using block and mortar to build the curb wall, do I need to prep the slab that's already there? Is there some kind of a bonding agent that I should put down first to help the mortar adhere to the slab?

Picture of opening


Curb Wall

May 11, 2013, 04:12 PM
if i read your post correctly
you want to build of block wall
first i would lay block out on the floor with out motor. to see how it will lay out. then mark on the floor where the cells are. drill a 5/8" hole in the concrete with a hammerdrill,2" deep. install 1/2"rebar 4' tall vertically. this will tie the wall into the floor. wet the floor with water and put motor on floor install a course of block. spread sand over floor. where you do not want motor to stick
after the 1st course is layed put wire mesh over the 1st course and motor on top of that. install 2nd course. repeat intill you reach 4' then stop..
pour concrete into all the cells. after pouring the concrete add another 4' of rebar and continue building wall
use your finger or a scouring tool to dress up the motor inbetween each course. after moterr has dried. rub wall with a peice of block to smooth out the wall

<<<<<<<<use a 4' level to level block horizontaly and verticaly as you build wall>>>>>>>>>>>

to answer your ? no.. just wet floor and slap on will stick.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Frodo,*****?v=vn7bkncf1_E
May 11, 2013, 05:54 PM
Frodo (and OP) I'm pretty sure he's just wanting to install a run of block to keep the framing up off the ground. This would eliminate the need for all the drilling and rebar and make the install like your bottom sentence.

It is the simple process: Install the block directly on the slab. If the slab has been painted, remove the paint in that area, otherwise have at it.

Be aware that those 'L' shaped header blocks are there because somewhere in the build of the garage, you must make the transition from the 8" block of the foundation to a 4" block to match the thickness of a typical framed wall. Since you are starting from a solid slab, there is no reason to use the header block. A single rectangular solid block will do.

May 11, 2013, 06:16 PM
yeah your right, i got carried away and started building a 10' wall.....*****?v=vn7bkncf1_E
May 11, 2013, 06:34 PM
Don't forget to remove the wood framing from the sides of the garage door where the block will be laid. If you can match your framing lumber to the demensions of your block you would be better off. If your block is 8" then framing lumber should be 2X8's. Actual block is less than 8" same as the lumber.

If you have been using this to drive through a number of years I would acid wash(Muratic) the area which will be under the block. This area will be sort of polished whereas the original was raw on the rest of the building when done. This will etch the concrete and make for better adhesion of the mortar.

Don't forget to place anchor ( J-bolts) to tie the wall to the block on your sill plate. And yest I would use Pressure treated lumber for the sill. Predetermine the stud locations when placing them as not to interfer with the studs.
May 11, 2013, 11:33 PM
CW Hunter
WOW! Thanks for the quick responses guys.

Yes, it will be a short curb wall and I will remove the wood from around the existing frame.

I may use the acid wash, I will have some on hand for putting epoxy on the new garage floor.

This is perfect - thank you all for your help.