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        Hanging kitchen cabinets Sign In/Join 
        posted
        How do I safely hang kitchen cabinets on old lath & plaster walls?
         
        Posts: 1 | Registered: Apr 09, 2014Reply With QuoteReport This Post
        posted Hide Post
        They need to be attached to framing. What is behind the lath?


        General Disclaimer

        Any advice given here is general in nature and is not necessarily valid for your given area. If in doubt check with your local codes enforcement department for what is required when doing electrical, plumbing or structural work on your house. Permits may or may not be required in your area and home owners may not be able to DIY some tasks. I have no way of knowing if you have the skills needed to complete the tasks you are asking about, when in doubt seek professional assistance.

        My advice may be worth exactly what you pay me for it. :-) For the record I did not stay in a Holiday Inn Express last night.
         
        Posts: 720 | Location: Cary, NC | Registered: Aug 17, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
        Picture of Jaybee
        posted Hide Post
        Yup, even lathe and plaster walls have vertical studs in there somewhere. The trick is finding them. In old houses, uneven stud spacing is common. You may need to do some delicate demolition in an area behind the baseboards or behind cabinets to verify where each stud is.

        Once you locate the studs, transfer measurements to the cabinets and install screws into the studs.


        Jaybee
         
        Posts: 10300 | Location: Knoxville, Tennessee | Registered: Sep 27, 2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
        posted Hide Post
        one might ask, "hey, I got this fine nuclear-powered stud-finder and hook baiter that also fixes zippers and starts the charcoal for steaks. why not use it to find the studs in a lath and plaster wall?"

        the density, man. your stud finder can't penetrate the plaster due to its density.

        you can use the old-fashioned nail and hammer trick... every couple inches, pound in a finishing nail. if it grabs, you found a stud. if it slides in, you found nothing. transfer the readings up or down as needed with a strip of painter's tape, and go for it.

        the only issue you might find is balloon framing behind those walls. no "build a story on a story" where the studs terminate on a plate, you go up until you run out of stud, then you nail another on the side, is how a lot of those walls are built. so you might miss a stud just wide once in a while. means you have to move over an inch and a half and try again, and use a little putty to hide the oopsies inside the cabinet.

        This message has been edited. Last edited by: swschrad,


        sig: if this is a new economy, how come they still want my old-fashioned money?
         
        Posts: 5727 | Location: North Burbs, MN | Registered: Mar 14, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
        posted Hide Post
        Poor mans "stud finder" on plaster. Using a electric razor (blades pointing toward you) Turn it on, glide it across the wall letting the back rest against the wall and let the vibration sound change tell you the approximate location.
         
        Posts: 1755 | Location: Applachain | Registered: Feb 27, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
        Picture of CommonwealthSparky
        posted Hide Post
        Poorest man stud finder: Your knuckles and a quiet kitchen...


        Popeye only reached for the Spinach can as a last resort...
         
        Posts: 1433 | Location: Central Pennsylvania | Registered: Jun 02, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
        posted Hide Post
        he-man's stud finder: sledge. you see it all the time on TV.


        sig: if this is a new economy, how come they still want my old-fashioned money?
         
        Posts: 5727 | Location: North Burbs, MN | Registered: Mar 14, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
        posted Hide Post
        Depending on the construction you may only have furring strips behind the lath. My parents last home was a true masonry construction from 1900. The outer walls were 2 layers of brick, the lath was attached to furring strips nailed into the brick. We tore out all the old lath and plaster and built 2x4 walls to insulate, run HVAC, electrical and new plumbing when we renovated the house. Interior walls were rough cut 2x4's of varying spacing. 16" OC spacing came with the advent of factory made plywood, plasterboard and later drywall.

        That house by the way cured me of TOH Fever.


        General Disclaimer

        Any advice given here is general in nature and is not necessarily valid for your given area. If in doubt check with your local codes enforcement department for what is required when doing electrical, plumbing or structural work on your house. Permits may or may not be required in your area and home owners may not be able to DIY some tasks. I have no way of knowing if you have the skills needed to complete the tasks you are asking about, when in doubt seek professional assistance.

        My advice may be worth exactly what you pay me for it. :-) For the record I did not stay in a Holiday Inn Express last night.
         
        Posts: 720 | Location: Cary, NC | Registered: Aug 17, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
        posted Hide Post
        this post is probably too little too late...but...I hate stud finders...primarily the ones with the lights and dead batteries. I've always leaned towards the magnetic ones and have had good luck with the CH Hansen for sheetrock. If you want to get at the studs in tiled walls or lath, for the same price get a www.studpop.com studpop. Just my 2 cents,
         
        Posts: 7 | Registered: Jul 10, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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