DIY Network

I have installed new interior doors and have noticed that some of the doors have the drywall protruding sometimes up to 1/4 inch. I need to put new casing up but I do not know how to install them with the drywall sticking out.
Help!!

Not exactly sure what you are discribing. If you installed new doors they should have fit the same rough opening as the original doors unless the door framing was wider than the original. If it is just the drywall catching on the door jam then a utility knife to fit the drywall to the edge of the jam should release the pressure and allow the drywall to lay flat.

It sounds to me like the walls are a bit thicker than the new door jambs are made for. If this is the case, align the door jamb with the wall surfce on the side of the wall that the hinges are on. Then you'll have to make some skinny sticks to add to the other edges of the jamb to match the face of that side of the wall. Then your casing will nail on easily. If the door jamb and casing are finish hardwood you'll want to make the sticks of the same kind of wood. If the finish is to be painted the kind of wood won't be a problem.

You could also try smashing down the drywall along the jamb edge with a hammer. This does work just don't go crazy.

...damn steve.... smash it down with a hammer?
do you work on a wrecking crew?

DON'T TRY SMASHING THE DRYWALL, that is just plain stupid. That's one of the big problems with DIY's and Pros these days. They come up with half-ashed ideas like that.

The door jambs and the wall thickness are the same (IF) you use the right drywall thickness and the right stud size. Anything other than that would be a special order.

You aren't offering enough information.

The way to fix it is to make some "jamb extensions". Thats' what the guy above calling them "sticks" is trying to say. Jamb extensions are an everyday component of construction but not usually with interior walls and doors.

At any rate (as you have discovered) your jambs MUST BE exactly the same or slightly larger than your walls. Extending the jambs is the only way to fix it.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Bud Cline,

I work in new home construction as a drywall contractor. What the carpenters do, is they line the case up, get the reveal right, draw a line and beat the drywall, making sure not to cross the line. It works everytime.

Extentensions sounds like that would work.
How do you make them?

In Oklahoma that doesn't surprise me a single bit. What a friggen bunch of hacks.

And that goes for the carpenters that can't set the framing or install the jambs properly.

When we can't excel let's just lower the damned bar for the cranial dwarfs.

Well it sounds like where Bud lives where all lumber is perfectly streight and has not flaws. But in the real word it's common practice to some times have to tap along the edge of the drywall so the casing sits flat on the jam. We call it tenderizing.
If I'm installing pre hungs I lay each one on saw horses and back each face so there it's at an angle leaving just what ever my reviel is going to be. That way if the wood is slighty twisted or the walls not perfectly flat the trim will still lay flat on the jam.
The only time jam extentions are used is if your trying to fit a much smaller door jam into a wider wall. Not for just a small gap.
If there's going to be any gap make sure it's on the outside not the inside of the door frame.
A jam extention is going to show up all around the door frame.
Tapping along the edge of the sheetrock then covering it up with the casing is going to do no harm, not need to be made up, or ever show once the casings on.

quote:

But in the real word it's common practice to some times have to tap along the edge of the drywall so the casing sits flat on the jam.

That may be but in my thirty-plus years of remodeling I have never once had to "tenderize" any drywall. I use the same lumber that is available to everyone else. It may be that the difference is I "cull my buys" and "varify my crowns" before stud placement.

OK, beam-me-up Scotty, I'm tired of being in the "real world".

this actually happened. i was doing a kitchen remodle at university of texas,the jester bldg
food court.i was doing the plumbing,hvac
i core drilled a 20 inch hole for a floor sink.
as per plans. the sink would fit ,but there was a 3ft wide duct below that was in the way of the bend on the 4 inch,deep seal trap.
so i write an RFI [REQUEST FURTHER INFORMATION]
the answer came back manualy manipulate the duct work for the trap to work. [beat a hole]]
as i was standing on the ladder,in the kitchen that is up and running. i spot a stainless bowl
about 12 inch. i cut a round hole and put the bowl in it. my point being, even the arch.
or mech, enginers, don't give a darn anymore.
no pride,the correct answer would have been,move the sink. but that cost $

Would this idea work?
Insert a flat head screw on the jam extentending only the to the thickness of the drywall. I would not need to do the whole door just in the areas that the drywall is protruding. Then install the caseing over the screws. The screw would add support so the case will no twist and will stay flush. Then fill in any gaps on the casing with caulk. In seems it would work. Any ideas it would not? I have to do this on 5 doors.

OK, now you are just trying to be funny, RIGHT? That's pretty good, that one!

Although a little milling would be in order. You could rabbit out the back of the casing (if not that much) to allow the casing to meet the door jams and fit over the protruding drywall.

quote:

Originally posted by Bud Cline:
OK, now you are just trying to be funny, RIGHT? That's pretty good, that one!

The guy at H.D told me he heard it being done.
It sounded like it work.
I decided to measure from the revel and then scored the drywall and the tap it back with a hammer. It worked like a charm.
Although I liked the idea of extensions, I would need a table saw and the skill to make the cuts. I do not have neither one.
I got the casing up ok, but i started boing the baseboards. I decided to instead of doing 45's degree cuts, instead kerfing one end and the cope the end where it meets the other board. It takes some time but it looks good and will not later show gaps from house movement.
I did struggle with measurements do so. I have two cuts left and wanted to know if you know the correct way for measuring. Do you measure the front side or back side of kurf, and then to the wall or to the front of face of the board that it will be coped against?
I hope I explainded that ok.

A kerf is the measurement of the width of a saw blade.
I think you mean the back cut. It's measured from the wall not the face of the base already in place.

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Bud Cline:
In Oklahoma that doesn't surprise me a single bit. What a friggen bunch of hacks.

Where are you from?