I am a rookie DIYer. This past weekend, I replaced the existing tile in our bathroom with the self-adhesive tiles from Home Depot. I just put the toilet back onto the closet main with a new wax ring and bolts. The bolts are securely tightened, but the toilet still has a wobble. I am clueless as to what could be causing this or what I can do to correct it.
I wish I could provide more information to you guys, but as a rookie, I really don't know what information would be pertinent.
Thanks in advance!
the floor is not level. there is something under one or more tiles, assuming the toilet ever was non-wobbly. the only alternate explaination is you have a bolt that isn't grabbing the ring any more.
get a level, and level the toilet. now look for gaps. you will probably find them. the high spots are where the trouble is.
you can "fix" that temporarily with plastic shims, but they will knock out as people sit on the can in random non-controlled ways, and when the floor is cleaned. but shims are not a fix-fix. the high spots have to be eliminated, and the toilet has to settle down level on a level floor, otherwise you are absolutely going to have it gap at the ring and loose water at the end of every flush (on a slightly uneven floor.)
a 4-foot level is your friend when doing floors. your best friend.
whatever happens, the toilet has to come up to fix it.This message has been edited. Last edited by: swschrad,
sig: if this is a new economy, how come they still want my old-fashioned money?
If you took out ceramic tile and installed peel and press vinyl tiles, then the toilet flange is too high in relation to the floor. Ceramic tile and thinset average 3/8" thick. Vinyl tile is about 1/16" thick. This makes the flange too high so the edges of the toilet do not touch the floor.
Short of resetting the flange, the only fix is to shim it. Use the short, clear flanges made for toilets, put at least 3 per side. Once you have the toilet leveled and tight, use some clear silicon around the base to fill the remaining gap and to hold the flanges in place permanently. Leave a small opening in the silicon at the back of the toilet.
If you do as Jaybee has suggested it will likely solve your problem.
Jaybee didn't explain why you leave a gap at the back of the toilet when you seal the base to the floor with silicon caulking. This is done so that if the toilet should leak around the wax seal water will collect under the toilet and eventually run out the gap at the back of the toilet. When you see a collection of water behind the toilet you will be able to determine where it came from and also know that you have a leak in the wax ring. If the subfloor is wood you will be able to repairs to the wax ring before it causes any damage to the wooden subfloor. Not leaving a gap prevents you from knowing that you have a leak and this often leads to damage of the subfloor where some of the subfloor and possibly some floor joists need to be replaced and/or repaired.
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