I've been cutting down small (1.5" x 2.75") blocks to use as mounts for exterior shutters. I'm cutting a taper to try to match the shingles' slant.
One of these small pieces caught the miter saw blade, broke a tooth in the blade, and launched itself about 15 feet (fortunately, away from me, but dangerous nonetheless).
From then on, I toenail screwed the small block onto the end of a longer piece so I could keep my hands further away from the blade. That process was tedious and, I can't help thinking, there must be a better way.
If you have a better way, please share.
Thanks in advance.
1. Get a high blade count - 100 teeth is good
2. Accept the fact that you will generate a lot of waste. Use a larger piece of stock to cut and hold on to the longer end. After cutting, The small piece will be your work, the larger piece is trash.
3. Drop the saw onto the wood very slowly and smoothly.
I had a saw take off the end of one of my fingers about ten years ago. I would not recommend it.
Thanks for the tips Jaybee.
Regarding the waste, I failed to mention that I'm cutting PVC (Azek). I only had 3/4" (actual) thickness to work with and needed to build up a little over 1 1/8" (actual), so I used PVC adhesive to make 1 1/2" thick stock. In order to screw perpendicular to the bond, I have to cut (roughly) parallel to the bond. I hope that makes sense
Sorry about your finger Jaybee. That's exactly what I'm trying to avoid. It certainly would put a damper on my guitar playing. I've seen one of the carpenters on Bob Villa's videos who has a few significantly shortened fingers. Not an enviable "badge of honor":-(This message has been edited. Last edited by: SturdyNail,
hold your working stock to a larger board with double back tape
Try to cut as many as you can at one time.
to free the stock from the tape, use mineral spirits
nona, double back tape is strong enough?
Hello. I thought I'd follow up with a description and pictures of what I ended up doing.
For most of the cuts I attached a thin piece of metal to the face of a 2x4. The metal extended around 5/8" past the end of the 2x4. I screwed through the metal into the top of the work piece.
Another approach was to create pocket holes on the face of the 2x4.
Screwing through the pocket holes into the side of the work piece secured the work piece while I cut it with the miter saw.
I had 40 of these cuts to do, so the need to secure each one while I made the cut proved to be pretty time consuming.
The pocket holes and screws provided the most firm hold. Of course, it was important that the screws did not extend as far as the cut.
Screwing through the metal brace was a bit quicker than the pocket holes, but the work piece did flare away from the 2x4 a little at the bottom. It was OK for my purposes though.
http://i1070.photobucket.com/a...1170_zps5a1f426e.jpgThis message has been edited. Last edited by: SturdyNail,
Very creative solution. Looks like no fingers were lost in the creating of this project. High fives all around (or High tens as the case may be!)
looks like you found the way that satisfies you, but , to add to my reply, I've been using double back tape to secure small parts for cutting for a long time. If you press the two pieces together firmly, you will have a hard time separating them without a solvent.
There is two types of double back tape, paper back and cloth back, I've always used the cloth back for it strength
Nothing else to add, just wanted to bump spammer phyllis of the top spot.
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