I would like to put a wood floor down on a concrete slab. Even an engineered wood floor would require me to seal the concrete slab against moisture. What product should I use to do this? I have about 1000 sqft to do.
Jul 26, 2012, 09:02 PM
Is this a floating floor, a glue down or what?
Jul 26, 2012, 10:25 PM
Glue down. Though even with a floating, I would probably want to seal it.
Jul 28, 2012, 09:12 AM
I would strongly recommend you check with the glue manufacturer before putting anything down. You would not want an interaction or want to make the glue not adhere.
Aug 02, 2012, 01:10 PM
Well. After some shilly-shallying, I finally picked an engineered butterscotch oak floating floor. Someone recommeded glueing down cheap linoleum as a vapor/moisture barrier. I know I've seen tilers do that, but would it be sufficient for engineered wood? Or would the standard underlayment be better. There are a million products that all claim to be better than the next. How does one tell the hype from the truth and actually get something that doesn't cost an arm and a leg?
Aug 02, 2012, 05:16 PM
There's been dozens of people on this site and other DIY site having issues with glued down floors. I strongly suggest using a cork vaper barrier and use engineered flooring installed as a floating floor. Which just means it's not glued to the floor, the glue is used in the joints instead. A cork underlayment will also act as a thermal break making the floor seem warmer. Engineered flooring is below grade rated so it's more stable. It looks like real wood, because it is on the top surface. If you buy the thicker stuff it can be refinished.
Aug 02, 2012, 08:33 PM
the engineered floor I had installed was glued down to the concrete floor, as per the mfgrs recommendations, the glue used was also a vapor barrier The floor has been down about 5 years with no problems, except that when it was newly installed there was some glue seepage at some of the joints. mineral spirits removed it easily
Aug 14, 2012, 10:55 PM
Thanks for the info! I purchased an engineered oak floating floor. Now I just have to learn how to install it, LOL! I still have to get the underlayment/vapor barrier. I will check into cork (and if I can afford it). :-)
Aug 15, 2012, 09:51 AM
Here's some information about laminate flooring. I think you will find that you don't have to do anything to the concrete floor providing it doesn't flood. Although the cork Joe mentioned would fare better, the foam/film underlayment is more then efficient and cheaper. If you just wish to have peace with the mind you can apply a coat of dryloc to the floor first.
Have you tested the floor for moisture first? Fairly simple - tape several pieces of plastic in different locations around the room. They can be anywhere from 1' x 1' to 2' x 2'. Tape directly to the concrete with the tape covering all four edges. Leave the plastic in place for 24 hours and then pull up. A slab with moisture issues will be dark and wet under the test patches. If the area under the patches are not discolored and dry, then you are in good shape.
You have made your floor install process many times easier by going with a floating floor. All you need to do is to get a vapor barrier / pad that is rated for concrete. The best ones are about a 1/4" thick with a sealed surface on one side. They are more expensive at 50 cents per SF. The standard floating floor foam pad is cheaper (25 cents per SF) but is not recommended for use on a concrete slab.