DIY Network

All Projects

TV Projects

    What Do You Want To Work On?

      What Activity Do You Want To Do?

        0

        Available Projects

        Get Results

        DIY Network /

        Message Boards

            DIY Message Boards  Hop To Forum Categories  Home Improvement  Hop To Forums  General Home Improvement    Rake Fascia detail; Is this plan OK?
        Go
        New
        Find
        Notify
        Tools
        Reply
          
        Rake Fascia detail; Is this plan OK? Sign In/Join 
        Picture of SturdyNail
        posted
        Hello,

        Here's a sketch of my plan for the fascia.
        Do you see any problems with it?

        The Certainteed shingle instructions say that the shingles should stick out 1/2" beyond the drip edge.
        I'm concerned that the 1x2 strip under the drip edge plus the 1/2 inch "lip" of the drip edge plus 1/2 inch shingle overhang will result in a "flimsy" edge.
        A 1x2 under the drip edge is used on my other gable ends, but I'm considering leaving it off if using it makes a weak setup.
        Similarly, I'm considering using a drip edge that does not have a 1/2 inch "lip".

        What are your thoughts or suggestions?

        Thanks in advance.

        Sketch of fascia
         
        Posts: 296 | Location: Western NewYork | Registered: Jan 26, 2012Reply With QuoteReport This Post
        posted Hide Post
        The Azek will not result in a flimsy edge, your shingles would have to be incredibly cheap 3 tabs to droop with a 1/2" overhang.

        I think your plan is fine.


        General Disclaimer

        Any advice given here is general in nature and is not necessarily valid for your given area. If in doubt check with your local codes enforcement department for what is required when doing electrical, plumbing or structural work on your house. Permits may or may not be required in your area and home owners may not be able to DIY some tasks. I have no way of knowing if you have the skills needed to complete the tasks you are asking about, when in doubt seek professional assistance.

        My advice may be worth exactly what you pay me for it. :-) For the record I did not stay in a Holiday Inn Express last night.
         
        Posts: 728 | Location: Cary, NC | Registered: Aug 17, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
        Picture of Jaybee
        posted Hide Post
        Good plan. The only thing I can add is that it will be better if that 1x6 Azek facia piece is a little longer (1x8?) so that it overlaps the joint between the wood 2x6 and the sheathing.


        Jaybee
         
        Posts: 10326 | Location: Knoxville, Tennessee | Registered: Sep 27, 2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
        Picture of SturdyNail
        posted Hide Post
        Sparky617, Thanks for your reply. The shingles aren't cheap. They're Certainteed Landmark Architectural. So, even with the 1/2" "lip" on the drip edge, adding 1/2" of overhang seems OK. Good! I'll stick with that.

        Jaybee, I like what you said, because, just this morning I was puzzling over that while eating my breakfast. I already bought the 1x6 Azek, so what would you think about ripping the wood 2x6 down to 5" (actual)?

        Thanks again!
         
        Posts: 296 | Location: Western NewYork | Registered: Jan 26, 2012Reply With QuoteReport This Post
        posted Hide Post
        Could you possibly drop the 1x6 Azek down a little instead? Or a combination of both? If needed put a wood spacer between the 1x6 Azek and the roof deck to support the 1x2 Azek.


        General Disclaimer

        Any advice given here is general in nature and is not necessarily valid for your given area. If in doubt check with your local codes enforcement department for what is required when doing electrical, plumbing or structural work on your house. Permits may or may not be required in your area and home owners may not be able to DIY some tasks. I have no way of knowing if you have the skills needed to complete the tasks you are asking about, when in doubt seek professional assistance.

        My advice may be worth exactly what you pay me for it. :-) For the record I did not stay in a Holiday Inn Express last night.
         
        Posts: 728 | Location: Cary, NC | Registered: Aug 17, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
        Picture of SturdyNail
        posted Hide Post
        Sparky617/Jaybee,

        How far down would you suggest I drop the Azek below the 2x6 wood? I'm reluctant to leave too much unsupported Azek. I hadn't realized how flexible the Azek can be. The 18' length is like a wet noodle.

        One other thing; there will be house wrap behind the 2x6 wood (it's already attached to the sheathing). Is that a good thing, bad thing, or doesn't matter? It does make it a bit more challenging dry fitting the fascia, since the pieces slip around on it.

        Thanks again.
         
        Posts: 296 | Location: Western NewYork | Registered: Jan 26, 2012Reply With QuoteReport This Post
        Picture of Jaybee
        posted Hide Post
        The reason for extending the lower edge of the Azek below the 2x6 is strictly to create a drip edge to keep water from hanging on the wood 2x6. Simplest way is to just drop the 1x6 Azek down anywhere from 1/4" to 1/2". You will get the same effect if you went to a larger dimension Azek but as you point out, you already have the 1x6 material. 1/2" drop will work fine, so I'd just lower it down and cover the gap with that secondary Azek 1x2 piece.


        Jaybee
         
        Posts: 10326 | Location: Knoxville, Tennessee | Registered: Sep 27, 2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
        Picture of SturdyNail
        posted Hide Post
        Thanks Jaybee. That sounds like a plan.

        Any comment on the house wrap sandwiched between the wall sheathing and the 2x6 wood?

        Cheers!
         
        Posts: 296 | Location: Western NewYork | Registered: Jan 26, 2012Reply With QuoteReport This Post
        Picture of Jaybee
        posted Hide Post
        quote:
        Originally posted by SturdyNail:
        Thanks Jaybee. That sounds like a plan.

        Any comment on the house wrap sandwiched between the wall sheathing and the 2x6 wood?

        Cheers!


        I'm going to assume that the inside edge of the 2x6 is on the same plane as the outside of the sheathing?

        If that's the case then your housewrap is installed correctly. You really don't want too many ins and outs with the wrap as it's designed to be installed on a flat surface. Also, it's there to keep moisture out of wall cavities, the 2x6 should be fronted on solid framing underneath. So the wrap is as it should be.


        Jaybee
         
        Posts: 10326 | Location: Knoxville, Tennessee | Registered: Sep 27, 2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
        Picture of SturdyNail
        posted Hide Post
        quote:
        I'm going to assume that the inside edge of the 2x6 is on the same plane as the outside of the sheathing?


        Yep. Same plane.

        Thanks.
         
        Posts: 296 | Location: Western NewYork | Registered: Jan 26, 2012Reply With QuoteReport This Post
        Picture of SturdyNail
        posted Hide Post
        Is there anything like "self leveling mix" for roof decking? Smile

        I now have the 2x6 wood, 1x6 Azek (dropped 1/2" below the 2x6 wood) and 1x2 Azek installed. The problem is that there are a lot of hills and valleys that need to be leveled before I can install a 1/2" sheathing piece to line up with existing deck.

        How do I smooth this all over so that my shingles will lie flat?

        Also, I'm concerned that the drip edge won't have a very firm base to nail into with just Azek below the 1/2" sheathing. Is that a concern?

        Thanks in advance.

         
        Posts: 296 | Location: Western NewYork | Registered: Jan 26, 2012Reply With QuoteReport This Post
        posted Hide Post
        Are you using a standard 3 tab or an architectural grade shingle? The latter disguise imperfections in the roof much better than the former.


        With respect to the drip edge if it won't reach the 2x6 I suppose you could use longer nails that would make it into the Azek, though I'm not sure how well a roofing nail would work with Azek. I wouldn't think the drip edge would need anything more secure than the shingles would, most nails for shingles go into the sheathing alone, a small percentage of them actually land in a roof rafter or truss.


        General Disclaimer

        Any advice given here is general in nature and is not necessarily valid for your given area. If in doubt check with your local codes enforcement department for what is required when doing electrical, plumbing or structural work on your house. Permits may or may not be required in your area and home owners may not be able to DIY some tasks. I have no way of knowing if you have the skills needed to complete the tasks you are asking about, when in doubt seek professional assistance.

        My advice may be worth exactly what you pay me for it. :-) For the record I did not stay in a Holiday Inn Express last night.
         
        Posts: 728 | Location: Cary, NC | Registered: Aug 17, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
        Picture of Jaybee
        posted Hide Post
        It really doesn't need to be very smooth under there. In fact, it's typical in roofing to add a shingle layer running up alongside the drip edge (90 degrees to normal shingles)just to create a little uphill lift on the edge of the roof. This keeps rainwater from dripping off the edge of the gable end and directs it back towards the interior of the roof.

        I know from your other posts that you are just repairing a small area but if you are concerned about any low spots then I would just run a sideways layer of shingles along that edge before installing the regular shingles.


        Jaybee
         
        Posts: 10326 | Location: Knoxville, Tennessee | Registered: Sep 27, 2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
        Picture of SturdyNail
        posted Hide Post
        Thanks Sparky617 and Jaybee.

        Sparky617, they are architectural shingles.

        Jaybee, I'm glad you said that about uphill lift on the edge. To me, that always looked wrong, so I was going to try to avoid it.

        It sure feels like a big area--both sides of the rake. I'm still trying to pry, ply, scrape, coax, cajole, lift, cut, will the shingles out of that sticky cement.
         
        Posts: 296 | Location: Western NewYork | Registered: Jan 26, 2012Reply With QuoteReport This Post
          Powered by Social Strata  
         

            DIY Message Boards  Hop To Forum Categories  Home Improvement  Hop To Forums  General Home Improvement    Rake Fascia detail; Is this plan OK?

        © Scripps Networks 2009

        Advertisement

        Posting Guidelines

        • Please be sure posts are category appropriate.
        • No off-topic or off-color postings.
        • Postings may be deleted at the discretion of DIY moderators.
        • No advertising is allowed.
        • Be nice. No name calling, personal attacks or flaming.
        • Certain words will trigger moderation of the post. These words mostly cover political or religious topics, which are OFF the topics covered by DIY.

        Full Guidelines

        For general message board help, click the tab labeled "Tools," and choose "Help" from the dropdown menu.