I wasn't sure if I should have posed this question in a previous post about this similar topic but I thought it was different enough, so here I go.
I can't believe how difficult it is to drive a drywall screw through the wall molding, it takes about 30 seconds! I've had to resort to pre-drilling all the holes and it's taking FOREVER! Is this normal? I've seen guys on youtube drilling through this stuff with very little effort. I got the molding at HD and I'm using an 18v drill. Any ideas?
Wall molding?? Actually predrilling is not a bad idea. I'm not sure what you mean by 'wall molding'. Are you talking about colonial base molding in MDF, oak, pine??
What kind of drywall screw -- gold, black, fine thread, course thread?
Maybe the guys on youtube don't care about the quality of the appearance.
I don't have an answer -- just questions. This message has been edited. Last edited by: Re-mdlr,
I'm betting you are talking about the metal 'L' channel that runs around the perimeter of the room and holds the cross braces and ceiling panels.
Here's the trick: Set the drywall screw in your drill, put the point of the screw up against the metal of the track, then pop the back of the drill with the palm of our hand. This will set the point of the screw into the thin metal and let you drive it all the way in.
If that doesn't work for you, then you'll need to drill pilot holes with a small drill bit or get different screws that have a drill bit molded into the point.
Re-mdlr, yeah I didn't explain the situation well. It's the perimeter molding for a drop ceiling. I'm using black coarse drywall screws.
Jaybee, I'll try your suggestion of driving the screw into the metal. I've been using drill bits but the damn things keep breaking, probably because they're Ryobi bits! I didn't know about the screws with a built in drill bit - I'll have to look into that. Thanks.
Drywall screws generally do not "drill" very well. Plus if you installing Radiata pine from South America that type of wood is hard as a rock as well. Good luck, pre drilling.
Popeye only reached for the Spinach can as a last resort...
Dry wall screws are pretty weak too and if you hit any major resistance, they break then you are really screwed.
The problem your facing is the more the screw is designed for self-taping, the less bite it will have to seat your material. So you need to compromise.
As always, 2 sets of hands are better...get a friend and with an awl and hammer, have them tap you a good hole where you can immediately follow-up and drive your screw. If the material is not drywall, I would use something much sturdier than a drywall screw.
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