I am looking for the right "cement" product to build up a 1"x1" raised "rail" on my cement basement floor to help direct water to a floor drain.
My house is heated with a boiler and hot water baseboard radiators (typical for Nova Scotia where we don't need AC and forced air furnaces). My boiler had a slow leak that went un-noticed and caused $7000 damage to my finished basement. There is a drain in the boiler room floor but enough water got to the walls, under the sill and into the finished area of my basement. Had the floor been graded properly, the drain would have easily handled the leak.
I want to build a little raised rail around the permeter of the base of my boiler so if there is another leak it directs the water to the drain, instead of letting it seep over to the walls.
I know I won't prevent MAJOR disaster, but it will save MAJOR damage from another slow leak.
What cement product can I use that will create a water-proof seal with the exising floor and be suitable for what I am trying to do.
Also, while I am here... what color ribbon should i put on my Xmas wreath?
How much vanilla should I put in these sugar cookies?
Right off the top of my head nothing comes to mind in regards to a cement product. You could however use Pressure treated 5/4 deck boards ripped to a workable width. Apply a generous amount of caulk between the floor and PT lumber. A few tapcons to hold it in place. Use weights on the boards until the caulk or silicon dries. You can always go back later and add more silicon to create a dam affect
Now with that said had you considered cutting a slight trough with a angle grinder and diamond blade to direct water toward the drain. The trick would be to cut it tapered to where the water will follow gravity. You can do this my using a tapered wooden guide for the tool to rest on as you cut. Slight taper (thicker)to beginning with and heavier (thinner) toward the end.This message has been edited. Last edited by: redoverfarm,
Good idea. Never thought of PT... That would work too with liberal caulking underneath. Tapcon and adhesive.
The grinder option is interedting, either sloping the whole area or building a channel to the drain.
Similar idea but instead of PT wood use a composite or vinyl plank. One available product is vinyl brick mold - it's taller than deck planks so will make for a higher 'dam' to divert water. I'd attach it with a generous amount of construction adhesive but then caulk the vinyl to concrete joint with a good quality adhesive.
Any concrete type product will not work because the bond between the new concrete and the old is not very good - water could still seep underneath the new concrete.
I like the vinyl brick mold idea. I was thinking of some sort of vinyl or cellular PVC product. The brick mold has the advantage of being readily available, already cut to a perfect size without having to rip and glue it up if you bought 1x Azek stock and decided to make it.
Any advice given here is general in nature and is not necessarily valid for your given area. If in doubt check with your local codes enforcement department for what is required when doing electrical, plumbing or structural work on your house. Permits may or may not be required in your area and home owners may not be able to DIY some tasks. I have no way of knowing if you have the skills needed to complete the tasks you are asking about, when in doubt seek professional assistance.
My advice may be worth exactly what you pay me for it. :-) For the record I did not stay in a Holiday Inn Express last night.
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