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            DIY Message Boards  Hop To Forum Categories  Home Improvement  Hop To Forums  Floors    Laminate floor buckle
        Laminate floor buckle Sign In/Join 
        We had laminate flooring put in our kitchen & LR. The kitchen had ceramic tile & the LR was carpeted. When the carpet was removed the height didn't match the kitchen so the flooring person put 3/8" OSB to make the floors level. I might add this is on cement slab. The LR almost immediately started to buckle. They came back & removed the floor and cut between 2 of the OSB boards (the thickness of the saw blade & proceeded to screw the OSB down all over. After 2-3 months it is buckling all over the LR. Kitchen is fine. Should the of used Luan, and glued it down?
        Posts: 1 | Registered: Jul 19, 2014Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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        the problem is moisture is coming up from the slab. if there was not a plastic layer first, everything from the slab up is not going to work. neither base layer you mentioned is proof against moisture, and it's wicking up into the flooring. if that was not a laminate rated for direct placement against a slab (or basement use) it's going to be a fail forever.

        if this was the correct laminate for the job, and the locking tongue and groove was not damaged, it may be possible to re-lay the material over a correct subfloor. but I don't think the guys who were doing that flooring have a clue based on what you have written.

        sig: if this is a new economy, how come they still want my old-fashioned money?
        Posts: 5869 | Location: North Burbs, MN | Registered: Mar 14, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
        Picture of Jaybee
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        The problem is the OSB screwed to the concrete. Without knowing I'll make an educated guess here and say that they didn't use nearly enough screws. For 3/8" OSB, fasteners need to be a maximum of 6" apart in all directions. That works out to 153 screws per 4x8 OSB sheet. If they used less than that over concrete than it is going to buckle. As hard as it is to put screws into concrete, I can pretty well guarantee you that they didn't use enough screws.

        One fix that will work: Remove the finish floor and remove the OSB. Toss the OSB. Instead, use 1/4" Hardi board bedded in thinset. This will give you the 3/8" lift you need, will be impervious to moisture and will not buckle or move. Then, install a vapor barrier rated pad for the floating floor. This is not the basic thin foam pad but is a thin pad-like material bonded to a plastic backing. The regular pad costs 25 cents per SF while the vapor barrier pad is twice that at 50 cents per SF. But you will need the VB padding or the moisture in the concrete and Hardi will transfer to the floating floor above.

        Once you have that then you can install the floating floor. Since there is obviously moisture present, make sure that there is at least 1/2" spacing around the perimeter of the room for expansion.

        This message has been edited. Last edited by: Jaybee,

        Posts: 10500 | Location: Knoxville, Tennessee | Registered: Sep 27, 2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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