DIY Message Boards
Rookie Working on subflooring Need Assistance please.

This topic can be found at:

May 06, 2013, 12:21 PM
Rookie Working on subflooring Need Assistance please.
Greeting , I'm currently working on a bathroom remodel because the issue was the person before us had an issue with their bathtub and I am guessing it had cracked in the middle which is why he cut a square hole in the middle of it and placed a tile there. Yea its as it sounds, then placed caulk around it hoping that would fix it. It was only temporary as you used the bathtub to take a shower it washed the caulk away and you have water going thru it to the plywood flooring. So now I am dealing with the conciquences of it. The water Damage was so bad it traveled to both bedrooms on each side, not to far out because i shut down that side of the house and the damaged stopped. The thing is, is that he has done the same thing to the other bathtub in the opposite side of the house and yes it has water damage and we use that bathroom b ecause we dont have another. So with that all said now down to my issues at hand, I'm trying to do this myself and my goal is to restore the side of the house I shut down, so I can shut the side of the house were using down, before it gets any worse. I did my research on how to do the bathtub removal and bought all the tools for the job and got it all out. got up most of the rotten plywood sub flooring. it was so bad if you stepped on it you would go down to the crawl space under the house. so I cleared it out still got a piece of it still in there but gonna remove that also soon. I am at a stand still because i'm not sure what to do about the subfloor that travels under the bedroom and goes into the bathroom. Do I have to remove the wall is basically what I want to know. Tear down the sheet rock tear down the frame behind it then replace the plywood flooring then replace the frame then re sheet rock it all back? Just wanna know what im getting myself into if i need to spend more money and buy more tools. I have pictures, Hope I explained this situation well and hope someone can tell me what to do from here.

Thank you very much
Regards John

Bedroom 1

Sig - Why pay someone to do a job you can do yourself?
May 06, 2013, 12:22 PM
Picture - Bathroom

Bathroom Floor

Sig - Why pay someone to do a job you can do yourself?
May 06, 2013, 02:42 PM
(1) poke something or tape plastic bags across those drain openings, you are up to your eyebrows in sewer gas. some of it is explosive and some of it is poisonous.

(1a) look around and make sure you have vents on all those drains straight up to the roof and out. it's code. it's good sense. the three basic rules of plumbing are water up, (.) down, and (gas) out the roof.

(2) poked all those joists yet with a screwdriver? if the wood is soft and rotting, you need to replace it beam to foundation cut. this is barely DIY stuff, it's core structure and you can't yank stuff out and replace it next week; the house will be severely damaged. otherwise, of course, it needs to dry out completely before you can refloor.

(3) check on "span load" after measuring your lumber there and the lengths. in a bathroom holding more than the bare builders' minimum, you should go up one size on general principle... and if you only have 2x10s where the length of the joist run calls for 2x12s, a cheap builder was leaving you with a game of chance. you could sister boards on with screws and glue if necessary.

(4) if the subfloor is rotten under the wall, you should replace it. Sawzall all the nails section by section between the wall and the subfloor / joists, cut the material on the other side (yes, sorry) and kick it out. you do this in sections so the wall (and roof) doesn't sag. sag = very very bad. replace with new after insuring the joists and footer of the wall are OK with the old screwdriver poke test. if bad wood here, you are absolutely going to have to open the wall on one side and fix what needs fixing. my vote would be the bathroom side, so you can put up cememt board and a waterproofing membrane, and tile the bathroom.

the pros who look around here will have more suggestions and code observations. the mitered or tongue and groove subfloor plywood products would be a great no-squeak subfloor to lay down.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: swschrad,

sig: if this is a new economy, how come they still want my old-fashioned money?
May 06, 2013, 03:15 PM
Thank you very much that's what i needed to know and thanks for telling me to block these drains , i did the bathroom a few days ago and i got extremly sick and went to the hospital so now i know where i probably got sick from now thank you for this information you just saved me from another mystery episode of being ill. now i can get back to work.

Sig - Why pay someone to do a job you can do yourself?