We are attempting to attach a 30" x 15" wall cabinet, but we have plaster walls with no remove between the wall and outside brick wall. Also no studs can be located either. What would be the best methods for this attachment since toggles can not be used because of the lack of space. | |||
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If the cabinet isn't that heavy, I'd use plastic anchors which you can get at any hardware store. Plastic anchors come in different sizes. The small ones require that you drill a 3/16 inch diameter hole in the plaster to a depth of 1 inch. The medium size ones require that you drill a 1/4 inch diameter hole in the plaster to a depth of 1 1/4 inch. The larger size requires that you drill a 5/16 inch diameter hole in the plaster to a depth of 1 1/2 inch. http://t2.gstatic.com/images?q...gNXO2wUcRehx18cH8t4w Your plaster is only 3/4 inch thick, and so if the cabinet isn't that heavy, you'd be best to stick with the small or medium size anchors. If you're concerned the cabinet may be too heavy for plastic anchors, you can always drill deeper and install lead anchors. Lead anchors work on the same principle as plastic anchors, but they're stronger and will support more weight. http://i00.i.aliimg.com/photo/...2348/lead_anchor.jpg You drill holes through the back of the cabinet, put the cabinet against the wall where you want it and mark the hole locations or drill through the existing holes into the plaster. Then drive your anchors into the holes in the plaster. Often it's necessary to enlarge the hole slightly so the plastic anchor doesn't bend when being driven in. Then, use #8, #10 or #12 size sheet metal screws driven into the anchors to hang the cabinet on the plaster.This message has been edited. Last edited by: Nestor, | ||||
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Plastic anchors will never hold it up. What you will find is after drilling the hole the plaster will have fractured enough that when you go to screw in the screw the insert will just spin. Just try one in an area you know will be cover up and see. Another simple test is to predrill a hole in a piece of wood big enoght for clearance for the screws threads. Now insert the plastic insert and try to tighten up the screw through the board into the wall, then pull on the board and see what happens. What would be far stronger would be to use what's called a french cleat. The cleat gets screwed http://www.newwoodworker.com/frenchcleat.html to the wall with Tap Con screws and to the cabinet with reguler cabinet screws inside the cabinet. the web site suggest using 2 X 4's but 1/2 or 3/4" plywood works just as well. At the bottom of the cabinets all that's needed is a 1 X 4 screwed to the wall to make the cabinets sit flat on the brackets. Some simple trim will cover up the gaps on the ends of the cabinets caused by the spacing out by the cleat.This message has been edited. Last edited by: joecaption, joecaption | ||||
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Yep, Tapcon screws probably would work better. I just didn't think of using them in a plastered wall. | ||||
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Plastering walls with concrete is necessary so that it does not sink water and remain dry. In a plain and smooth surface no water remain sit, it quickly slipped from wall. As a result no mold will form and looks better. wet walls drying service ny | ||||
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