How do you attach a wall mounted faucet-yes buried in the lath and plaster wall- to pex piping so it doesn't wiggle? Do I have to build a bracket or brace for it? Currently have the wall mount attached to galvanized threaded pipe-which is connected downstairs to copper pipe, and yeah it is corroded and in need of adding shut off valves and then pex due to being on an outside uninsulated wall. Any hints-APPRECIATED!
DaveThis message has been edited. Last edited by: gnomad56,
If you are relying on solid piping to hold the faucet steady, then the only way you can swap to pex without opening up the wall is to keep enough galvanized attached to the faucet so that you can attach the galvanized to the framing to keep everything in place. This is assuming that you have some access from the back side to replace the plumbing.
If you are OK with opening up the front side, then you can attach the faucet directly to the framing and run pex to the faucet.
Very poor plan. Galvinized will leak and close up over time, if it comes in contact with any dissimiler material, it will start to corrode far faster.
I had thought about installing a wall mounted faucet over my stove one time.
When I figured out how much more work it was I gave up on the idea.
The paster and lath would have to go to be able to mount a backing to mount it to.
Thanks, it seemed a bit obvious that something needed to secure the faucet- so when I get to ripping the wall apart I'll have to plan a bracket or somehow secure it. Thanks all
for the next reader... those pot-filler fixtures come with instruction sheets. read and learn, grasshopper.
I would generically expect you have to prep the area like you were putting in a showerhead; that is, open the wall up, set a 2x4 or 2x6 at the back for support, and use a drop elbow (drop ell) of brass with full-length stainless or brass screws to hold it to the 2-by. plumb down from there, and use an appropriate brass nipple for the pot filler to screw into. and lots of teflon tape wrapped with the threads when you screw this in.
ideally you open the wall on the other side, too, so you can cut a 1-1/2 inch deep notch in two studs for your 2-by support to slip into like a glove. construction adhesive and screws make it strong. you could lean on a toenailed "brace" and pull it right out.
sig: if this is a new economy, how come they still want my old-fashioned money?
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