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            DIY Message Boards  Hop To Forum Categories  Home Building  Hop To Forums  General Home Building    Time for a Chimney water leak!
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        Time for a Chimney water leak! Sign In/Join 
        posted
        First winter in my new home. The roof is fairly new but the chimney has some issues. The leak was trickling down the side of the fireplace inside the house, onto the floor. (Through the attic) Some of the drywall/ ceiling was moldy and removed, will be replacing that soon.

        Better yet, to the source of the problem. I may hire a buddy but if I can ATTEMPT atleast to fix this myself that would be great. My visual inspection photos are attached... I'd assume to use some time of water proof roofing sealer around these cracked areas. It may be worse under the shingles but I can't currently get under there (This roof is an overlay). Any affordable suggestions to get me by for a while?

        Appreciations in advance....!!!!

         
        Posts: 6 | Registered: Feb 11, 2014Reply With QuoteReport This Post
        posted Hide Post
        Photo of the top

         
        Posts: 6 | Registered: Feb 11, 2014Reply With QuoteReport This Post
        posted Hide Post
        Lower/ front on the sloped draining side. The dark looking holes I think are because it's a roof layover, so it's raised a bit making those sections look like major drainage areas, which they very well could be... not sure.

        This message has been edited. Last edited by: phil1979yes,

         
        Posts: 6 | Registered: Feb 11, 2014Reply With QuoteReport This Post
        Picture of Jaybee
        posted Hide Post
        Your quick and dirty fix will be to get a can of roof sealant and cover over all those open gaps around the base of the chimney.

        It looks like there is flashing on the brick (that tan stuff). If so, that flashing should overlap step flashing that is woven in the shingle overlap pattern and tucks up under the brick side flashing. If the step flashing is missing or not installed correctly, that could be the source of your leak.

        Once you have warm (and dry) weather you can remove much of the sealant that is there and see what's going on.


        Jaybee
         
        Posts: 10351 | Location: Knoxville, Tennessee | Registered: Sep 27, 2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
        posted Hide Post
        What you need to do is not hard or expensive. It will insure no leaks. It's not the best way to do it, but it will keep you from having to pull up some roofing. If your interested I will post it, it's a lot of info and I don't want to go through it if your not coming back.?
         
        Posts: 843 | Registered: Jan 29, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
        posted Hide Post
        Yeah please post!
        I'm not new hear my old account wasn't working
        It had been a while so maybe it was lost...
        Who knows.

        Please share though Smile
         
        Posts: 6 | Registered: Feb 11, 2014Reply With QuoteReport This Post
        posted Hide Post
        quote:
        Originally posted by ron45:
        What you need to do is not hard or expensive. It will insure no leaks. It's not the best way to do it, but it will keep you from having to pull up some roofing. If your interested I will post it, it's a lot of info and I don't want to go through it if your not coming back.?


        Big Grin
         
        Posts: 6 | Registered: Feb 11, 2014Reply With QuoteReport This Post
        posted Hide Post
        How did you post your pictures.?
         
        Posts: 843 | Registered: Jan 29, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
        posted Hide Post
        On the lower left of the message box where you type it says add attachment, that was it. It seems can only do one at a time..

        This message has been edited. Last edited by: phil1979yes,
         
        Posts: 6 | Registered: Feb 11, 2014Reply With QuoteReport This Post
        posted Hide Post
        photo looks like missing flashing on the sides. you also have issues with the masonry cap atop the chimney up to the clay flue.

        a tube of black goo on each side of the chimney only buys you time to get that flashing replaced, might require a few new shingles. since the masonry cap is deteriorating as well as cracked, it should probably be removed and replaced. that's a minor issue now compared to the flashing, but both should be fixed.


        sig: if this is a new economy, how come they still want my old-fashioned money?
         
        Posts: 5773 | Location: North Burbs, MN | Registered: Mar 14, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
        posted Hide Post
        Maybe it is just the appearence in the first set of photographs but it appears that it was done incorrectly to begin with. The flashing should not run under the roofing material. The intention of the flashing is to divert the water coming down the chimney sides to the top of the roofing material not underneath it allowing it to make it way to the gutter or eve edge and drop.

        The flashing should also be one piece from the chimey to the roof. There is exception for using a two piece but the lower section needs to be tucked under the chimney flashing and then roll out onto the top of the roofing material The way it looks is that they used one piece for the chimney and then joined the second piece to the first on the outside rather than inside.

        The area from the back of the chimey toward the ridge is crucial in that it needs to have a cricket constructed.
         
        Posts: 1759 | Location: Applachain | Registered: Feb 27, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
        posted Hide Post
        I never seen a site where you can only post one picture at a time. Okay, grabbed my coffee, cigs, and donut....
        Starting at the top.
        You will probably want to get one of these.

         
        Posts: 843 | Registered: Jan 29, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
        posted Hide Post
        With a good cleaning solution (maybe UGL drylok etch masonry cleaner, follow all directions)clean the chimney crown. You will want to add sealant, make it look like this... Here's a link you can follow too.
        Pay attention to how many photos are in one spot.
        http://www.familyhandyman.com/...maintenance/view-all

        This message has been edited. Last edited by: ron45,

         
        Posts: 843 | Registered: Jan 29, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
        posted Hide Post
        Whats done is done, unless you feel comfortable taking up roofing, but you don't have to. At this point if you have never done it it's better to do it this way.
        Take of the chimney flashing and clean the area really good. Then add this..
        http://www.amazon.com/Cofair-P.../178-6751390-2453250
        You will put half the width on the chimney and half on the roof making sure to form it to the surface.
        Measure each side and make the pieces 8" longer, if the side of chimney measures 12" + 8" = 20". Start at the bottom side, make sure the material wraps around both sides equal distance. Then do the two sides making sure they wrap the top and over the bottom. The top then wraps the sides.
        You can get an idea of doing this from the flashing part. The flashing will cover over this. Just don't cut the corners, they stretch around, yep, pressure and elbow grease.

        This message has been edited. Last edited by: ron45,

         
        Posts: 843 | Registered: Jan 29, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
        posted Hide Post
        Step flashig or regular chimney flashing.?
        Using the steps in this link is for step flashing.But it will give you and idea of how to do the reg. chimney flashing, the lines are just cut straight in the chimney not stepped.
        http://www.familyhandyman.com/...ey-flashing/view-all

        Here's some chimney flashing.? You just won't use the steps, just the long piece... You will have to bend the metal...
        http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unb...310122-RBR/203581337

        This message has been edited. Last edited by: ron45,

         
        Posts: 843 | Registered: Jan 29, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
        posted Hide Post
        also, add black jack under the flashing where it meets the roof and anywhere that water may enter. You can also use 100% silicone.
        http://www.homedepot.com/s/bla...f%2520sealant?NCNI-5

        If you have any questions just ask.?

        ...

        This message has been edited. Last edited by: ron45,
         
        Posts: 843 | Registered: Jan 29, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
        posted Hide Post
        At the end of this video will show you how to cut for the flashing, but yours will be ell shaped at the bootom and resting on roof.

        http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_AP7-hbRsHM

        This message has been edited. Last edited by: ron45,
         
        Posts: 843 | Registered: Jan 29, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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