We are adding a covered porch to our cottage (see thread below) and are trying to understand some fundamentals of roof design. When thinking about our porch ceiling I know we can put t&g panels attached to the 15' long ceiling joists but since this is an uninsulated porch, would it also be possible to have a more 'open' ceiling? It's is where my knowledge falls short. I assume a scissor truss could give s a vaulted ceiling, but if we didn't want finish the underside of the roof could we just have rafters and a ridge beam with no ceiling joists? Since one end of the beam would be attaching to the original structure, do I assume it needs a post support ( which it wouldn't have). When people do this, how do they make the underside of the roof sheathing more attractive?
We have not got into these details with our builder since we are now just at dimensions and concept phase and selecting a builder and options...maybe this is too small a job for trusses?
This will be a 12x15 space with roof tying into original structure as in option b in post below.
Personally, I'd cover the underside of the roof rafters or trusses. Especially trusses. If you don't every nook and cranny up there will become a place for birds to build nests, and generally under nests is a pile of bird droppings.
I've used Hardi-panel T1-11 to make a ceiling in a screened porch, but my favorite covering was 1x4 tongue and groove boards. It looked fantastic. If I had a digital picture of it I'd post it. I'll dig out a picture of the ceiling and scan it later to post.
The T1-11 covering only cost about $20 per 4x8 sheet. It may be a bit more now, but certainly less than $25 a sheet, and you'll cover 32 square feet per sheet. Hardi-Panel T1-11 is much smoother and easier to paint than wood T1-11.
Any advice given here is general in nature and is not necessarily valid for your given area. If in doubt check with your local codes enforcement department for what is required when doing electrical, plumbing or structural work on your house. Permits may or may not be required in your area and home owners may not be able to DIY some tasks. I have no way of knowing if you have the skills needed to complete the tasks you are asking about, when in doubt seek professional assistance.
My advice may be worth exactly what you pay me for it. :-) For the record I did not stay in a Holiday Inn Express last night.
They make it more attractive by adding s ceiling - like the T&G you are talking about. This also makes it possible to add insulation - something that you really will want so you can avoid all the heat radiating in from the roof. For typical construction, if you do not install a ceiling your 'view' will be the underside of C/D plywood sheathing or OSB and bunched of nails poked through from the shingles.
It's a whole different style of construction if you want the look of beams and rafters with a ceiling above. You can do it, but you will be working with large lumber of better grades along with a layered roof to give you a nice ceiling, insulation and roof decking. It works, it looks nice and it's way more expensive.
Very helpful. Wasn't thinking about insulation. Also since the new porch will tie into existing roof, it's probably best to just close off all the structure with a flat ceiling.This message has been edited. Last edited by: kal72,
You can still do a vaulted ceiling if you want, you just have to make an interior gable wall to fill the space looking into the roof overlay from below.
I know this is a DIY site, but have you looked into hiring an Architect.? This could help in so many ways.....
I haven't looked into hiring an architect...I was wating to hire a builder and then see what is required for the building permit in terms of designs, architectural drawings. I think the permit office might just need to see framing diagrams.
Is there something that should concern me about this simple design?
I'd say no to the architect, not really needed for a project this size. At most, find a design/build builder who is familiar with the code requirements in your area. Some parts of the country require detailed plans for even the smallest projects, some just a basic drawing, some nothing at all.
Building a roofed porch attached to the house would it be generally better to use 6x6 PT posts going from the footings (sonotube) all the way up to support the top plate on the two front corners and then adding additional 2x6 framing in betweeen? or is it equally as sound to have shorter 6x6 posts supporting the deck joists or beams to the appropriate elevation then just framing up the walls of the porch on top of the deck like you would an interior wall? I would thing the 6x6 that is attached directly to the concrete footing (saddle clip or sunken in concrete) going all the way up to the roof would give better stability to the wind.
6x6's all the way will work of course, but it really overkill. Also, unless you have a huge porch the 6" depth will tend to close it in and make it look smaller.
Go with 6x6 to support the deck, then 4x4 for the porch walls.
Thanks. I actually think the beefy 6x6s look nicer than 4x4 (or worse double 2x4s) on a porch corner post...you're right it all depends on the size of the structure. I was asking from a structural point of view and it sounds like it's sufficient for the porch wall sole plate to be attached to the floor joists without the corner posts being anchored directly down to the footings. I don't want to overkill, but this is an oceanside property so I want to make sure it can handle the
Structurally, either 6x6 or 4x4 will work and structurally either a continuous run from footer through deck to roof or a separate deck structure with deck mounted vertical support will also work.
Since a properly constructed wall tied in with side walls will be strong, it's overkill to set things up as a continuous run. Since it's also harder to build and keep everything lined up perfectly, I would advise to build the deck structure and then the porch structure on top of it.
Interesting. I am glad I asked, and glad you answered.
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