It's really very simple. First, is the floor nice and flat? I would run a straight edge like a 48" carpenter's lever around to see if there are any dips in the concrete slab. If so, it would be a good idea to float the dipped area with plaster to make it all flat. It happens. Then a foam pad first then the carpet. You're in northern Georgia and that means the trace possiblilty of Radon. Hopefully, when the slab was poured (last thirty years) the builder laid a vapor barrier before the slab was poured. If not, a vapor barrier might be a good thing before the foam goes down. It could be just an inexpensive 1 mil painter's plastic drop cloth. This might not even be an issue. Of course there are the ussual tack strips and seams to deal with. If you're really gonna Do-It-Youself, I would rent one of those carpet stretcher machines and for go the kick tool. It's not terribly hard, just a lot a huge heavy stuff to deal with. Good Luck!
Jerry Karlo, Home Design Extraordinaire http://www.korel.com http://home-web-directory.com
Not sure if you'd want to do this yourself. Carpet installation is pretty cheap at the box stores and you need tools and strength to do it. Jerry didn't mention you need to install tack strip around the edges of the room and stretch the carpet over it.
it usually doesn't cost much to have the carpet installed. weigh the 100 bucks to install against the price of rental tools the kicker,the heater seam tool, carpet knife your at 80 - 100 bucks already and thats the rental. i think its cheaper to have it done ,for just 1 room, but a whole house cheaper to do it your self oh..i forgot the chiropractor 30 dollar copay and 15 dollar prescription, for happy pills
Posts: 1668 | Location: i i live in southern mississippi | Registered: Jun 01, 2008
Never use plaster to try and level a concrete floor! It's going to act as a sponge and mold up or crack up making a real mess. If the floors pretty smooth and dip free then you do not need to go to the added expance and time to add leveler anyway for carpeting. Do a moisture test to see if there is a moisture problum before laying any carpet. A simple way is to cut a 12" X 12" piece of plastic wrap and tape it to the floor and leave it for 48 hours to see if vaper forms. Concrete should always have a vaper barrier to stop any moisture from hitting the padding.
joecaption
Posts: 11258 | Location: Halieford VA | Registered: Jan 31, 2004
Why take a chance on mold setting in? A roll of plactic and some tape for the sealms is cheaper then having to pull all of it out and replacing it if it fails. Plus the chance of someone getting sick.
joecaption
Posts: 11258 | Location: Halieford VA | Registered: Jan 31, 2004
[QUOTE]Originally posted by yes.itsconcrete: little late worrying about a vapor barrier, mom,,, if its apron store kit mtl, its only wtr-based,,, wait til it debonds & try again.
not sure i understand your statement
Posts: 13 | Location: kennesaw ga | Registered: Oct 12, 2008
didn't think you 1st did a moisture test (which we always do) to be certain your method/materials would work,,, our materials are solvent-based & we never use ANY water-based stuff,,, what you did might work, tho ! have seen the apron store folks hand out the wrong advice too many times ESPECIALLY when its concrete repairs or floor stains/epoxies.
or you can call me - i'm in marietta
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