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Posted
I'm starting to put plans together to re-do the shower in our bath. I want to demo out the tile, take out part of the wall that is between the shower and the rest of the bathroom (no electrical or plumbing in there, I peeked).

Any chance I can save and re-tile over the existing shower bed, or am I gonna have to have chop that out and have it re-poured? I am planning on re-doing the walls of the shower with concrete board and installing a new shower head/fixture. I want to do a frameless glass shower door so that we get more light in there so I don't have to have electrical run to put a light in.

I'm going to get help with this one, but was trying to get an idea what I'm in for.
 
Posts: 26 | Registered: Sep 12, 2008Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
Posted Hide Post
How old is this shower? It's likely the least expensive thing to do is going to be remove it totally and start new.Smile
 
Posts: 378 | Registered: Feb 17, 2008Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
Posted Hide Post
I'm pretty sure it came with the house, so I'm gonna say it was built early seventies.
 
Posts: 26 | Registered: Sep 12, 2008Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Showers if built correctly will out-live all the family pets and even some generations of other things.

BUT. If it's that old and you are going as far as you are going, then it may be silly not to start over from the beginning and do a total rehab.Smile
 
Posts: 378 | Registered: Feb 17, 2008Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Okay, total demo it is.
 
Posts: 26 | Registered: Sep 12, 2008Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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If your going to gut the shower it is prudent to also change the shower body to one that has a pressure or temperature balance or both such as a Delta monitor type to protect people from scalding
 
Posts: 13 | Location: Riverdale NY | Registered: Sep 17, 2008Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
Picture of Schu'sALegend
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That's code in most locations now for temperature balance or anti-scald devices in showers or tub/showers.

They can find out what their codes are from the building permit office when they apply for permits.

ToolQueen


HammerUp!
 
Posts: 2363 | Location: Pendleton, SC,USA | Registered: Oct 26, 2003Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Here's a step by step on how to install a shower or tub. Not sure if it's everything you need, but a good reference...

http://www.selfhelpandmore.com/plumbing/how-to-install-a-shower-or-bathtub.php
 
Posts: 103 | Registered: Sep 04, 2008Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Just use caution when following information from websites such as that one. Did you notice their discalimer at the bottom of the page?

"THIS ARTICLE IS PROVIDED 'AS IS' WITH NO WARRANTY OF ANY KIND. THE AUTHOR, THE SITE OWNER AND ITS AFFILIATES ASSUME NO LIABILITY FOR ERRORS OR OMISSIONS CONTAINED THEREIN OR FOR ANY USE OF THE INFORMATION CONTAINED IN THIS DOCUMENT. The article is for informational purposes only and is not a substitute for professional advice."
 
Posts: 378 | Registered: Feb 17, 2008Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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i read the how to install a tub and shower
it was all generic, no detail info.
enough to make you say..yeah!!! i can do that!!
but nothing to help you out 15 minutes in to it
1st thing is make up what you want, then we figure out how to do it. demo comes first
then rerough for what youv'e picked out
it is my opinion to rip it all out and go back with new. you don't want a new floor and walls with a old drain and funky old faucet
for a diy. i would go with a premade shower pan
it only makes sence, lowes has a pretty nice plastic 5 ft x 32 inch walk in shower .with 3 walls and a bottom. around 4 hundred bucks
not to shabby, they have other sizes also
 
Posts: 1574 | Location: i i live in southern mississippi | Registered: Jun 01, 2008Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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NO shortcuts. Rip it all out. Rip out the entire wall and then install the 1/2 inch Duroc "concrete board" which will meet level with the 1/2 inch sheetrock in the room. Now you are talking. Everything has to be level before you tile.
 
Posts: 34 | Registered: Nov 08, 2008Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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