Hello!

I am going to be a posting fool in these message boards.

I had the bathroon renovated about 10 years ago. My carpenter did the work. Now, he is a very good carpenter, but I dont' think that bathrooms were really his gig. We had an insert installed in the shower/tub area. New cement board was installed. However, I think that he used nails rather than screws to secure the cement board, because now I am seeing specific cracks in the shower insert. Ok-so now I would to tile, but do I need to replace the cement board again? My carpenter also left a 1 1/2 in gap between the tub and the insert and very few years I have to re-caulk the area and it's a pain.

thanks!

I would get someone who is good at building showers take a look - anytime you have a 1-1/2" gap you have some problems. It could be that the best solution is to rip out what is there and start all over again.

Post a picture of what you have.
Let me just make a guess, there was orginaly plaster and lath on the wall before that tile board went in.
That would account for an 1-1/2 gap. Totaly wrong way to do it to leave any gap.
Simply shiming out the wall with 2 X 4's laying flat on the wall would have fixed that.
Nails or screws can be used to attach tile board but they needed to be galv. roofing nails.
Severial thing could have caused the issues, not enough nails, wrong nails, no web tape and thin set over the seams, no waterproofing over the tile board.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: joecaption,

When you say insert do you mean a one piece shower stall?

oh thank you for the responses!

yes-there is one solid piece of shower insert. Was pink tile in the beginning. Ok-I lied. Not 1 1/2 inch gap..more like 3/4 inch. I also have water problems. Build up from the water. White. Not sure if it's calcium or what. City has been out several times and says everything fine. City guy told me that I might have to replace all water fixtures every 7 years..I told him he was on pills.

Have a whole house water filter off the main water line.

Your water needs to be treated not filtered.
Calcium will end up on the bottom of your water heater and short out the element over time, plug up water lines, and act like an abrasive on any plumbing fixtures.
No clue what that's a picture of.
Just looks like a seam with a hump.
Back up and try again.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: joecaption,

The picture was of the gap that I have between the insert and the shower where I have to re caulk. If I take a picture of the entire insert-it will photograph well since it is all white.

But would I need to replace the cement board in back if I remove it for tile?

I did have a water softener, but I have taken it off. Been a couple of years now. Made no difference on the build up.

thank you again for all of the responses

the EPA in the US requires that all cities post annually for their residents what the analysis of the city water is. your city's website should have it, or pick up a copy at the city hall.

the salient point on there for you in these questions is what is the hardness of the water in grains. just about everyplace I've lived has water from 15-17 grains hardness, surface or well. that is the limit of treatment they will perform before pushing the water into the towers.

that's easily handled by a working water softener. if you aren't getting that out of the taps, then the control needs to be adjusted for timing the regeneration of the tank.

and he wasn't lying when he said service faucets every 7 years to you. but that doesn't necessarily mean replacing them. you can help by cycling all your shutoffs at least once a year, doing that mysterious "tank drain" in the water heater every year, and buying washerless faucets and replacing the seals and control element when the faucets start leaking. some might need a vinegar soak if they get crusted up.

-0-

shower details: if you have top faults, you are certain to find bottom faults that allow water where it shouldn't be if you open things up. I am betting you will need to strip the shower area down to studs and rebuild it to solve the issues, and hopefully there is no weakened rotted wood that needs replacement.