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        Bowed Bathtub Shower Door Track Sign In/Join 
        posted
        I'm re-caulking a sliding bathtub shower door and discovered that the bottom track curves upward in the middle, resulting in a gap at least 1/8" wide between the bottom of the track and the tub. No doubt this is the reason the original caulk failed, as did subsequent patching efforts.

        There are two ways that I can think of to correct this problem. Both involve drilling a hole in the middle of the bottom track and then:

        1) Drilling a hole in the tub and using a flat head SS screw through both holes pull the track flat against the tub

        2) Glue a SS nut to the tub, and using a flat head SS bolt through the hole in the track and threaded into the nut pull it against the tub

        With method #1 I'm concerned about a leak developing where the screw enters the tub, although a generous amount of silicone might provide a long lasting seal.

        With method #2 I'm concerned about what type of glue to use to secure the nut for a long term bond because the area under the track will no doubt stay wet most of the time.

        Any thoughts about how to solve this problem?

        Thank You,
        Harry
         
        Posts: 3 | Registered: Aug 28, 2012Reply With QuoteReport This Post
        Picture of Jaybee
        posted Hide Post
        None of the above.

        Bad idea to drill a hole in the tub, just asking for all kinds of leaking problems down the road.

        Doubtful that any glue will hold the small area of a bolt head on a slick tub finish.

        Instead do it like it should have: Remove the track, clean off all the existing dried caulk. If you can, GENTLY put a slight reverse bend in it to make it straight. Then reinstall using a good silicon caulk under the track. Make sure you put the caulk where the track will touch the tub. While the caulk cures, securely hold it down with tape, something heavy or both. Let the track sit for at least 24 hours.


        Jaybee
         
        Posts: 9079 | Location: Knoxville, Tennessee | Registered: Sep 27, 2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
        Picture of joecaption
        posted Hide Post
        Only ways I can think of that one of those tracks could bent up like that is, it came that way, or someone tryed to install it cut to long and forced it in place.
        Just make sure you check the length when installing it, it should not have to be forced.
         
        Posts: 17743 | Location: Hartfield VA | Registered: Jan 31, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
        posted Hide Post
        I assume the track was probably bowed when it was initially installed (it certainly didn't bow due to being too long because it is actually a little short), and I suspect the installer weighted it down after applying copious amounts of caulk in the hopes the caulk would keep it straight. Eventually the caulk was no longer able to hold the track in place and it broke loose.

        I got brave and applied a lot of force to the track in an effort to correct the bow---and was relatively successful because there is now only a slight gap (about 1/32" in the middle) under the track. I simply don't dare apply more force for fear of kinking the vertical lip.

        My plan is to use a generous bead of caulk under the track and let it cure without applying any downward force. This way there shouldn't be any attempts by the track to lift up after the weight is removed.

        Which leads me to the following question:

        Should I apply caulk under both sides of the track or only under the outer one?

        Some of the instructions I've seen on the 'net say to apply caulk only under the outer edge of the track---the inner one should remain unsealed to allow water that somehow manages to get under the track to weep back into the tub. (This particular track has a recess running length wise under the outer edge but the inner one is flat, and there are no weep holes.) But because there is still a small gap in the middle between the inside side of the track and the tub, a lot of water will still get under the track.

        Wouldn't it be better to apply a bead of caulk under both edges to keep out the water?

        This message has been edited. Last edited by: HarryB,
         
        Posts: 3 | Registered: Aug 28, 2012Reply With QuoteReport This Post
        Picture of joecaption
        posted Hide Post
        Can you post a picture?
        There should be drain holes on the two inside tracks on the ends.
        Othere wise it would just fill up and over flow to the outside or run out the ends where the seam is.


        joecaption
         
        Posts: 17743 | Location: Hartfield VA | Registered: Jan 31, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
        posted Hide Post
        quote:
        Originally posted by joecaption:
        Can you post a picture?[snip]
        I'm afraid I can't figure out how embed pictures in this message (I've looked in the help files), so here are links to two pictures I took:
        Corner
        This picture shows how the bottom track and side pieces come together, looking from the inside of the tub. This corner will, of course, be caulked to seal the joints.
        Profile
        This picture shows the profile of the bottom rail---the outer edge of the track with the recess is on the right. This recess, I assume, is where I'm supposed to put a bead of caulk.

        The inner edge is on the left and that is where I'm wondering if I should also put a bead of caulk before laying it on the tub.

        If these pictures aren't what you had in mind I'll try again.

        Thank you,
        Harry
         
        Posts: 3 | Registered: Aug 28, 2012Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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