i am looking for a tenon bit, 1" for spindels on a porch. or 1 1/2"
anybody got a used one there not using?
round or square ? if round and no one has a bit to lend, you might consider drilling the spindle for a dowel and the rail to accomodate the dowel
By the way , I'm going to send you a pm about a water heater problem my daughter is having, as soon as I figure out how to word it intelligently
Suggestion, do not counter bore the holes.
Reason being you will be creating a hole for water to lay in and rot it out.
Once you make that hole you will expose the end grains of the wood.
The dowel idea works better in the long run, a dab of Tite bond II glue
and a hole made with a forister bit will work.
Still want a square hole? Use a paddle bit and one of these.
It will square off two sides with one wack.This message has been edited. Last edited by: joecaption,
i plan on making a log railing at the cabin, using wood off the land
split a log for top and bottom rail and saplings for the spindels
drill out the top and bottom rail with a forister bit
using the dowels seems like good advice, all i need is a 1 1/4 holesaw bit, i got a least 5 of them.
thanks for the input..
nona, you dont have to type intelligently, it doesnt stop me!!
sometimes i cant spell my own name, i get to pecking one fingered at the keys with these big ole fingers and hit 2 keys at once This message has been edited. Last edited by: Frodo,
Notice not one of these's uses split logs.
Check out the Rockler web site for the tool that makes the turning on the ends of the logs in one pass.
yes, the 4th from right to left on top of 1st page a radias shoulder tenon cutter [the red one]
thats what i want. its 100.00 bucks
ive seen others for $200 up to $1000This message has been edited. Last edited by: Frodo,
O.K. frodo, check your P.M.
Seeing that you rail is going to be rustic, I think you should glue the spindles in with an epoxy glue thickened with some sort of filler, I use a colloidal silica that I got from a boat manufacturer, but I think anything would work including fine saw dust
Don't forget to treat the whole thing periodically with wood preservative
The tennon cutters are great, but a little expensive, also, I dont think you wil be able to control it with a hand drill. Unless you have some sort of tool like a lathe or a deep reach drill press, I believe you would be best served with a dowel, try it , if it works for you go with it, if not the tenon cutters are an optionThis message has been edited. Last edited by: nona,
i have plenty of saw dust, been running a table saw for 2 years. and have not cleaned out from under it
been saving it for a special occasion!
the dowel idea is the cheaper way to go.
now i need to start chopping sapplings
don't forget that the fresh cut wood will shrink. If you can get old wood without insect damage you will be further ahead. Otherwise, put the new wood in your attic where it will dry faster from the heat up there. I dont know how you would sticker the wood so put as much as you dare up there to compensate for the wood that will become unusable
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