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what is the best finish for coffee tables to prevent water damage. poly vs. tung oil vs ??? and what brand thanks

The new issue of Woodsmith magazine has an article on epoxy finishes. Something to look into.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Sawdust Kathy,

gene parks,
knowing the look you want (a penetrating type finish or a top coat finish) would help determine what finishes would do better then others. Although polyurethane's are great all around finishes for tables and a lot of other things, for furniture I prefer Tried and True varnish oil (http://www.triedandtruewoodfinish.com/) or Waterlox (http://www.waterlox.com/). These are IMHO just as durable as polyurethane, but have the added benefits of not looking as plastic since they are penetrating type finishes. Tried and True is an all natural, zero VOC, food safe, polymerized linseed oil finish that starts out very durable and just gets more durable the longer it's on. This not like most finishes you apply because it's kind of the consistency of thick honey and gets buffed into the wood, and although the price may seem a little high for the amount you get, a little really goes a long way. Waterlox is a tung oil based urethane that is extremely durable. It was originally made for floors, so you can just imagine how durable it on other projects. It's very resistant to water, alcohol, most household chemicals and does extremely well with temperature changes (hot to cold, cold to hot like when you put a plate on a table). This is one of my favorite finishes because even though it does all of the previous, it still gives you the depth, richness, ease of application and reapplication of a traditional tung oil finish. If you prefer that built up or under glass look then no finish is more durable then an epoxy finish. If this is a look you prefer then contact Jamestown Distributors (http://www.jamestowndistributors.com). This is who I use for my epoxy finishes and their technical service people can advise you which product will be best for your specific project.

But this is just my opinion, I hope it helps.

Hi Goldenwood,

This post is a lesson in itself and posted most humbly and most characteristically in the Goldenwood style. My hat is off to you for your thorough, straight forward, yet simple explanation and assistance.

Another thing to consider is the type of wood being used. Hardwood versus softwood, open grain versus closed, etc. Also, what kind of shade are you looking for in the finished product? Waterlox is a great product, but it has a fairly deep tint blended right in, so if you're trying to keep a light or honey tint, you'll have to thin it out quite a bit. Polyurethane is usually pretty clear and will cause little change in the tint of a hardwood, but will darken a softwood. Any of these finishes will hold up to most applications and unless you have lots of small children or live in a fraternity house, should be just fine.