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I have a room in the basement with 2 overhead lights. They are operated by 1 switch. I want to put in a switch at the other end of the room. The lights are wired with 14/2. Will I need to re-wire the whole circuit with 14/3? Or, is there a way to run 14/2 or 14/3 from the last light to the new switch location? | |||
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The power that operates this switch and lights -- does it go into the switch and then feeds the power to the lights -- or does the power go to a light and then loops into the switch and then to the lights? You need to figure that out, then plan the circuit. And is there any existing 14/3 associated with these items -- post back and someone will be able to help you (I don't think I'll have time, but there are others with proper knowledge to help)This message has been edited. Last edited by: Re-mdlr, | ||||
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there are switch's that will turn on or off from either location ( I forgot what they are called )the box they come in will have the wiring diagram on it These switchs are no more expensive than a regular switch | ||||
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Look up a few "3 way switch 2011 NEC" youtube videos before you begin. This will refresh your brain and give confidence to seal the job with a better chance of craftsman eye guaranteed. You will need 14-3 traveler from bottom screws connecting both 3 way switches. Bottom left = red, bottom right = black. same for both. Neutral passes on wirenut at each switch. black power source goes to top right black common screw on one 3-way switch and then the lights black wire goes to top right black common screw of the other 3-way switch. Grounds get pig tailed to each switch unless "end line". Unsure of your order but find out where source is coming from and review my nifty *.bmp editing below If it helps any. I have posted both examples. Feel free to "right click : save as" any of my imagesThis message has been edited. Last edited by: JB Builder,  | |||
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Here is source into light first. Hot bypasses light and turns red then into blue going to far switch common screw (black screw) sorry for showing grounds. Grounds get bypassed in light boxes unless the light box is metal or if the light requires a ground then must be attached to the metal with a pigtail unless it end lines such as bottom left outlet in this below drawing does not get ground pigtail because its on the end so its connected directly to ground screw. Any questions please don't hesitate. 14-4 is hard to find. Blk, Red, Wht, Blu, Ground 14-2-2 is easy to find. Blk,Red,Wht, Wht, Ground 14-2-2 will need one white wire painted blue with blue permanent marker. The NEC and CEC is straying away from using the "only" white wire as a hot marked wire. I agree. ::clap::This message has been edited. Last edited by: JB Builder,  | |||
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JB: I think you have the easiest and best solution. To answer your question, the power comes to the switch from the panel via 14/2. Travels to the lights also via 14/2. Circuit ends at the last light. I want to control both lights at the same time from different locations. So, the solution is to replace the original single pole switch with a 3-way and run 14/3 from the that switch to the new switch (also a 3-way)? | ||||
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What exactly is 14-4 ? True metal boxes must be grounded. But PVC boxes installed to hold light fixtures must have the metal light attachment bar grounded prperly as well. "Why isn't everyday Earth Day ?" | |||
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Since you stated that the power comes into the switch box from the panel Quote: So, the solution is to replace the original single pole switch with a 3-way and run 14/3 from the that switch to the new switch (also a 3-way)?[/QUOTE] Yes, a new 3 way switch in both boxes, and yes, run a 14/3 from switch box to switch box -- the hot from power source goes to the discolored connector on the switch in the one box, and in the other box the black power going to the lights connects to the discolored connector on the switch. The black and red from the 14/3 connect to both switches at the connectors that are the same color connectors on the switches, doesn't matter which wire goes to which. Whites to whites, ground to grounds. This is assuming standard 3 way switches. If you use fancy ones, read their instructions as to color code connections.This message has been edited. Last edited by: Re-mdlr, | ||||
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Yes sir, Wire it like the Power to Switch diagram i have created above. ( unsure if you need to refresh this page) Sparky, 14-4 is black, red, white and blue with ground. So it is 5 total wires. 14-2-2 is the same but the blue wire is now white. So 14-2-2 is black, red, white and white with ground. Still 5 wires but one white wire needs to be marked to stay code. As for grounding plastic boxes. The NEC doesn't tell us to install ground at fixture unless it is required by device or the box is metal or has a metal lid or metal cage. The CEC (Canada) on other hand might require any metal in a box or entry wedges to be fit with grounded clips or the wires itself. I only use the blue plastic non metal deep boxesThis message has been edited. Last edited by: JB Builder, | |||
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14-4 as in what ? Romex, the normal product for home wiring needs. Code does say you have to ground the fixture and or strap hung on a PVC box though. "Why isn't everyday Earth Day ?" | |||
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Also when wrapping wire around a screw, you should wrap it around clock wise so when you tighten the screw, the wire tip 'u-bend' becomes tighter. I highly recommend using the screws and not the back-stab holes (rated for 14 gauge anyways). However receptacles and switches are different. Some common GFI and AFI receptacle outlets do not let you bend a wire around the screw and instead have a screw down pressure plate you can slide the wire under then tighten well. Under the plate is a tiny spike which grips the wire. I won't buy a GFI without first looking for this spike if it only allows me to pressure plate it. I always use screws since i seen more than 1 back-stab broken at the same time in a house that was having flickering problems. It was the reason why. If you take stress off your wire bends, Back-stabs are ok if done right.This message has been edited. Last edited by: JB Builder,  | |||
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Yeh NEC doesn't mention fixture itself for this. It just says the below so far that i can find. ----- 410-17. Fixtures and lighting equipment shall be grounded as required in Article 250 and Part E of this article. Comment: Article 250 states that exposed noncurrent-carrying metal parts of fixed equipment likely to become energized shall be grounded. 410-18(a). Exposed metal parts shall be grounded or insulated from ground and other conducting surfaces or inaccessible to unqualified personnel. --- So this is one reason why I use pvc non metal boxes. Not every light fixture has a ground  Pretty soon NEC will probably make us ground our box nails too. LOL. Switches are required to be grounded. Wires are not to be too crowded. Deep boxes are best. Neutral has to be at each switch. Just like my above diagram "power to switch" Looks like you just need a long piece of 14-3 and two 3 way switches and 2 deep plastic boxes This message has been edited. Last edited by: JB Builder, | |||
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