Recently I finished my new oak treads with an oil based finish. I was about to finish them off with a top coat when I noticed some uneven spots. So I set out to sand those spots so i could re-apply the oil based finish them apply the top coat.
The problem is I cannot get the oil based finish to apply to these uneven areas. It is almost like the oak tread will not accept the paint any longer as I can literally wipe out any finish I apply.
I used 60 grit then 100 grit sandpaper to sand off then smooth out the area i wanted to re-apply the finish to, but it is not working.
Am I not sanding enough?
Should I apply something different to these areas to get the tread to accept the additional finish?
How did you prep this in the first place?
Did you use a primmer?
What products are you using?
The stairs were a new install put in a month ago with oak treads and pine risers. I lightly sanded with 100 grit and 150 grit to smooth finish before apyingthe oil paint finish. Since the stairs were new I didn't see the need to apply any type of primer. The first coat I put on applied fine, it was my lack of maintenance that caused it to not be applied even as I didn't wipe off excess paint before it dried.
Something's not making any since.
Are you painting or staining? Two totally different things.
What are you trying to stain and your having trouble the riser or the treads?
Pine should have been treated with a wood conditioner before the stain went on.
Oak does not need it because it's hard wood.
All this should have been stained before even installing it.
I would have wipe it down with mineral sprits to even it out not sand it.
Sorry yes I am staining not painting. Sorry for getting my verbiage messed up. The stairs came pre-assembled from the factory so I didn't have a chance to stain before they were installed. The issue is with the oak treads. The pine risers I primed and sealed with zinsser and it worked out just fine. The oak treads will not take a second fix coat of stain in the areas I am trying to level out even after I sanded off the first coat. I used Minwax Wood Finish Red Oak.
90% of the time I use Gel stain not the liquid.
Makes far less mess and there's more control.
#1 Read the instructions on the can.
oak is not as thirsty as softer woods. sand it too smooth, it will not take stain. go back to the 100 grit and sand the treads down, then stain and let it soak in and dry overnight, then do a smoothing stain job and wipe down. poly the next day.
some oak seems to be either waxed so it looks and handles well, or it's just overprocessed. get a scrap and practice with that (you DID have to trim the treads, right?) once it's right with the scraps, you know what you have to do to the real installation. leave it alone overnight and don't wear anything but old gym socks when you come back and poly your way upstairs.This message has been edited. Last edited by: swschrad,
sig: if this is a new economy, how come they still want my old-fashioned money?
No way would I ever leave stain that has not been wipe off to remove the access over night.
Once again read the can.
Go on the Min Wax website for lot's of useful info.
They even have a help line where you can post questions.
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