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        Need Advice on Exterior Paint Job for Home Sign In/Join 
        Picture of BDC
        posted
        Hi Everyone,

        I am going to try using a new airless sprayer (Ryobi RAP200G Airless Paint Station Pistol-Grip sprayer) for painting the exterior of my home in the next few weeks; I will be using a Purdy 3" ProExtra Glide for cutting in and rollers if necessary. I was in the Navy and spent a year in the shipyard needlegunning and repainting (red/gray-lead) an entire Aircraft Carrier...so I'm not scared, but I don't have your experience and would like to get your feedback please.

        We live in a single story/ranch style home (2758 SQFT) w/Concrete/Stucco exterior - here it is: http://goo.gl/maps/LbaoI. The house was built in 1994...and in 2003, I had a contractor repaint the exterior (he used an airless sprayer). The paint we chose was a medium dark color (like milk chocolate) for the body and an off-white for the trim...the contractor insisted on Sherwin-Williams SuperPaint Latex GLOSS; I like SW and approved this sheen knowing that it normally shows more imperfections ...but...not only did it look great...it lasted 10 years! Its just now starting to break-down (2013) showing age/fade and I can now see two...maybe three touch up spots that we did over the years...I don't see or feel any chalkiness...nor is ther any paint peeling...however, the color is just losing pigment. Time to repaint while its not raining and cooler!

        So...I get a lot of conflicting advice on which direction to go with this paintjob...but if that last repaint lasted 10 years using a Prime & a sprayed Two Coats of SW Gloss method...then it makes perfect sense to stick with this same formula! Wouldnt you agree? So this is what my plan is:
        1. First step is to prep by pressure washing the entire house (using the widest nozzle) with bleach to kill any mold, rinsing well...and then let it dry for a day.
        2. Next day...caulk any gaps or cracks...let that dry for a day.
        3. Next day...mask off windows and doors using blue tape & painters plastic...then either apply/spray a single coat of CLEAR Seal-Krete Original Sealer...or ...mix the sealer to SW latex Gloss paint (Four to eight ounces per gallon is recommended) to improve the spread rate and use that for my 1st coat.
        Lastly...when that dries...then finish up with a 2nd coat sprayed in a different direction so that I cover any holidays/missed spots.

        The questions I have are:
        ~ Can I get away with NOT back-rolling?
        ~ Should I mix the sealer with the paint as recommended by the sealer company and will it benefit me?
        ~ Do I spray all the trim (8" wide) first...or after spraying the main walls?
        ~ Is there anything else you would add or do?

        Thanks for any advice...


        Mike
         
        Posts: 3 | Registered: Oct 31, 2013Reply With QuoteReport This Post
        Picture of GardenSprite
        posted Hide Post
        Mike, you might want to delete the link to your house and address. There are some obnoxious spammers and trolls here and you really don't need to have any of them know where you live.

        Just a word of caution....
         
        Posts: 1964 | Registered: Oct 06, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
        Picture of BDC
        posted Hide Post
        Thanks for the tip...but what are they gonna do? I get junk mail already...makes good painters paper!
         
        Posts: 3 | Registered: Oct 31, 2013Reply With QuoteReport This Post
        posted Hide Post
        the additive sealer is going to dilute the SW paint, so it may not hold up as well. I would ask a counter pro at a Sherwin store. if I find a good thing, I don't want to mess with it.


        sig: if this is a new economy, how come they still want my old-fashioned money?
         
        Posts: 5849 | Location: North Burbs, MN | Registered: Mar 14, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
        Picture of Conrad
        posted Hide Post
        Assuming your relative humidity is high...in FL? I would probably wait more than a day or two after washing the siding to make sure any residual moisture has found a way out, and thoroughly dried. Power washing can send moisture into the tiniest of cracks and voids.

        Any dampness to a surface is often a cause of possible paint peeling/failure.
         
        Posts: 6894 | Location: Plains and Mountains | Registered: Sep 26, 2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
        Picture of BDC
        posted Hide Post
        Good tips guys thx...I'm assuming the rest of my plan is up to par then? Eek
         
        Posts: 3 | Registered: Oct 31, 2013Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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