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        DIY lateral sewer dig Sign In/Join 
        posted
        It’s hard to trust strangers, even harder to trust the previous homeowner, but I try.

        Its great to be on the DIY forum, this is my first post. I really need advice. I have a 30-70 year old concrete lateral sewer line that backs up due to root infiltration every 6 months. I have had more jetting and camera footage of this thing than Jenna Jameson. This lateral has a clean out 2 feet on the side of the house that runs 60 feet straight out to the middle of the street where at a depth of 7 feet it drops into a ten foot vertical riser into the main. The riser is brand new and was defective and replaced by the city. After 45 feet of run from the cleanout, at the curb, the last 15 feet are in the street. I have had quotes from 6k-12k for open trench, bursting and lining (some to the curb, others all the way to the riser). I don’t have that kind of money so the tarot card reader had a vision of a shovel in my future. It’s this…or kids playing in poop and my wife gnawing my ear off…every single day. I want to do this right and have done more reading about this then I’ve ever wanted too. I plan on replacing the 4 in concrete with 4 in SDR35 in the yard and evaluating from the yard to the riser in the street (poss. liner) when we dig to the 4>6in transition before the curb. It is currently a slowly draining backed up line.

        No underground utilities are anywhere near where I am working as confirmed by locate. The existing lateral pipe is 4 in concrete that transitions to 6 in right before the sidewalk. That’s where I plan on stopping. The depth is most likely (two numbers from two different jetting/camera sessions, newest number is shallower depth…hmm) 42-55 inches at this transition so I should not HAVE to use shoring (OSHA 5> feet not in right of way= no required shoring..anyone??). I have already excavated a narrow 12in wide pilot trench 20 feet from the cleanout so far and am stopping right above the concrete pipe for depth. The path of the pipe excavated so far confirms the accuracy of a black line spray painted over a copper wire I tied taught around the cleanout, to the green (SS) locate arrow tip in the middle of the street above the risers asphalt patch. This line also coincidentally runs right over a large crack in the sidewalk. This is where I am now.

        I plan on excavating 18 in wide and 6 in below the concrete pipe. I especially need advice when I hit the 4 in to 6 inch transition right before the sidewalk in my yard. With my numerous home movies of the sewer, the majority of the root infiltration is in the middle of my yard near a juniper bush and tree that I have spent the previous week cutting down stump digging. There is also some minor root infiltration (10% of pipe pre-jetting) 5 feet in from the curb in the street. The condition of the concrete pipe under the street is relatively good. If when I get to this 4>6 inch transition, if it is not backed up at this location, I am considering advancing by hand 4 inch SDR35 into the old 6 inch concrete pipe in my yard to the 90 degree PVC riser in the middle of the street. Should this be beveled? It is a straight line shot. I would advance carefully by hand or wood block and rubber mallet. I am considering renting a camera to place just inside the lip of the new PVC pipe that I would use for real-time guidance as I carefully advanced to the riser’s top 90 coupling or I can stop 5 or so feet short? The medical world uses the EXACT same technology. I would use a 4 in PVC>6 in Concrete FERNCO adapter seal the connection at the sidewalk to prevent infiltration. This way I would have brand new PVC from the cleanout to the new street riser. Apparently, according to the city, I own the lateral all the way to the city’s riser in the middle of the street. They will not fix it and have stated it’s my responsibility.

        I have a rotary laser level in my garage, courtesy of tool time. I will grade with this using start and end depth with freshly placed sand under bedding. Local code only dictates that slope must be greater than 2% (I will be greater than 1/4in a foot). I will underbed with 6 in sand (anyone?) and over bed with 12 in pea gravel. This will be compacted by hand with an 8in square plate compactor (already in garage). Every 6 in of native backfill with be hand compacted and I will add 4 inches above grade for future settling.

        Any thought comments and constructive suggestions are greatly appreciated. Please.


        Thank a veteran.
         
        Posts: 3 | Location: Seattle, WA | Registered: Jun 06, 2014Reply With QuoteReport This Post
        posted Hide Post
        water and sewer are "code" work, and the depth means a real danger of trench collapse (aka no daddy for the kids.) you sound like a candidate for a sewer liner rather than a chain-gang style hand dig. that's basically a PVC pushed through your existing sewer line that is root-proof.

        as much as anything can be.

        see what bids for that look like before getting any (pun) deeper into this.


        sig: if this is a new economy, how come they still want my old-fashioned money?
         
        Posts: 5733 | Location: North Burbs, MN | Registered: Mar 14, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
        posted Hide Post
        quote:
        Originally posted by swschrad:
        water and sewer are "code" work, and the depth means a real danger of trench collapse (aka no daddy for the kids.) you sound like a candidate for a sewer liner rather than a chain-gang style hand dig. that's basically a PVC pushed through your existing sewer line that is root-proof.

        as much as anything can be.

        see what bids for that look like before getting any (pun) deeper into this.


        I have numerous quotes. I just can't pay 5-10K. Poop isint healthy with small kids. Im not very concerned about shoring since we are going down only about 4 feet but will use it if needed. Im feeling out the idea of repairing half the line by open trench and if at the point of where the pipe upsizes from 4 inches to six at the sidewalk, carefully advancing 4 inch PVC to 'slip line' the old 6 inch pipe.


        Thank a veteran.
         
        Posts: 3 | Location: Seattle, WA | Registered: Jun 06, 2014Reply With QuoteReport This Post
        posted Hide Post
        If it was me, I'd remove the tree, stump grind to as deep as it can be done, roto-root out the roots in the line, and inject some sort of weed killer around the line at or near the joints. That should fix the problem at a way lower cost than replacing everything
         
        Posts: 2536 | Location: florida | Registered: Sep 27, 2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
        posted Hide Post
        quote:
        Originally posted by nona:
        If it was me, I'd remove the tree, stump grind to as deep as it can be done, roto-root out the roots in the line, and inject some sort of weed killer around the line at or near the joints. That should fix the problem at a way lower cost than replacing everything


        The tree stump has been completely removed. I plann on getting a jetting (rotating head) done today to get me open. My question is, can I slide in 4 inch PVC into 6 inch old concrete under the street and all things considered be ok?


        Thank a veteran.
         
        Posts: 3 | Location: Seattle, WA | Registered: Jun 06, 2014Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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