I plan to use some simple solution like this for my water heater
http://www.amazon.com/Jones-St...un-Off/dp/B000DZQQBY

However, it's just a straight tube, same like sold in Homedepot or Lowes. My problem is the drain hole is somewhere further and required running the like and 90 degree angle 2 times.

How to make or modify this tube? Would using CPVC work to extend / connect with it?

Why not use 3/4" Pex you could make the whole run with no connections in most cases.
PVC, CPVC, copper all will also work. Just use 3/4 or 1", not 1/2", you do not want to restrict that line.
There's a good reason the fitting is 3/4 FPT.
Those cheap straight tubes they sell are so thin and brittle anytime something bumps them they break.
Any way to relocate that hole were the line leads out of the house to get rid of some of those 90's?

evil.

I got an home inspector red-flag on selling the folks' house in the estate because I had run the T&P drain line over 6 feet to the floor drain. had to zip over 240 miles, change it to a single 90, dropping the steam/water mix that would exit if the heater controls failed to a point within 9-12 inches above the floor, within a foot of the heater.

and the house sold right afterwards. that appears to be not only Fargo requirements, but the code standard nationally.

since we're dealing with what would be live steam in a disaster case, this should be a good stout metal pipe. soldered M-copper is ok.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: swschrad,

If that is code no inspecter or plumber in my areas heard of it. Not diagreeing just it would make far more since to get that hot water and steam outside where it would do no harm instead of splashing back out of the pan and going all over the room.
What there thinking is if you can see it you will know the relief has opened. What if no ones home?

This message has been edited. Last edited by: joecaption,

Can Pex or PVC hold the hot water? If that Pex works, that would be nice because it is so flexible...

Yes it can.

well, Joe, that's why I ran it 8 feet horizontal to the end of the wall, then dropped 90 to about 6 inches off the floor, and a 45 to hit the floor drain. hey, clever dude!

not so when we had the only buyer who came back twice and the inspector put the only "deficient, correct" check on the report. that's what they cited. I checked a few "how to" deals on Da ISH, and they all called it like that.. as short and straight as possible to a foot off the floor, absolutely no grid-dipping hose bibs on the end of the pipe.

as always, you have paid taxes, and the city has hired local inspectors to know and enforce your local building codes. you paid those guys. to call and ask is free. do so for any reasonable question.

Quanghoc:

If the P&T relief valve on your water heater is dripping, it's either because you need to replace that valve, or you need to install an expansion tank on your water supply piping.

Normally, you shouldn't have any water dripping out of the relief valve, and so normally there's no real need to direct the outlet of that valve into a drain.
(Although I do see your point; better the drain than all over the floor.) Commercial hot water heaters typically only last 4 to 6 years, so I've had about 5 water heaters in my building, and none of them ever leaked out the P&T relief valve without me playing with it first.

Where I live, no inspector would allow the outlet of the relief valve to be directed outside. That's because of the possibility of the line getting plugged in winter by ice.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Nestor,

My relief valve doesn't leak now but I guess not putting a line to the drain is against code. So I guess I have to do it and use Pex to make it cheap and easy.

Hallo Quanghoc. you mention a good link in you post for recover the water heater problems. Please suggest me which is good water heater for bathroom..?

This message has been edited. Last edited by: stover8924,

stover8924, water heater for bathroom only? I never seen that

quote:

Originally posted by stover8924:
Hallo Quanghoc. you mention a good link in you post for recover the water heater problems. Please suggest me which is good water heater for bathroom..?

Are you thinking of the small water heaters found in European bathrooms, to provide hot water only for the bathroom and not for all the hot water faucets in the home?

I don't think these are used very much here in the US, but that's not to say that it wouldn't be a good idea.

the code on a t an p relief valve is it shall run to outside of the building or to an aproved floor drain and terminate not more than 12 in aff. it shall not be reduced, but be piped full size. in no circumstances shall the t+p valve be pluged or capped
it shall also be of copper,galvinized, cpvc, or pex tubing. it shall not be of pvc
because pvc melts under high tempurture
as far as a water heater for a bathroom, happens all the time
if you have a 50 gal garden tub or j-kuzzie
and you dont have a water heater designated for that fixture. your water will get cold
you want me to suggest a water heater for your bath?
how many fixtures in your bathroom?
what size tub or shower?
whats the gpm of your shower head?
these ? need answers, to receive a thoughtful answer

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Frodo,