the angle of my house the front never gets direct sun light to dry it after rain or dew so theeir for i get mold. it is a 11yr old home with vinyl siding. I pressure wash it 2times a year because of the problem with blaech on soap.their has to be something on the market to stop this growth. PLEASE HELP!!!

If there is I've never seen it.
Have you been using bleach in the injector when pressure washing to make sure it gets killed and not just moved around?
One thing you could try is to use the Clorox outdoor bleach, (Lowes, Home Depot both sell it)it's thicker. Mist it on with the low pressure nozzle and let it sit at least 15 min. then rince it off.
Some older or less expencive vinyl siding is more poris and more prone to mold. I've not seen this as much in the past 5 years.

I would guess what the problem is is that there's no mildewcide in the vinyl.

A good quality exterior latex paint will have mildewcides in it to kill mildew spores on the paint before they grow. Talk to someone at your local paint storeS (to get several opinions) on which exterior paints they've found work best for this problem. That's because if you're having this problem, lots of people in your community are, and the painting contractors and paint stores are familiar with it and know how to deal with it.

Also, vinyl softens up significantly with increasing temperature, and so the manufacturer of vinyl siding recommend that you don't paint it any darker than it's original colour, even if you have to paint white siding white.

If you want to keep your house looking as is, I would clean the affected areas well and paint over them with a top quality exterior latex paint tinted to the same colour as your existing siding. That will give you much better resistance to mildew on the affected areas.

Note that latex paints darken appreciably as they dry, so don't judge the paint colour until it's fully dry, and don't paint the whole area until you're happy with the colour match.

Also, whenever I need to paint walls or ceilings after repairing them, I find that I only need to paint up to the first inside or outside corner. That's because your brain knows that the apparant colour of a surface will change with different angles of viewing and illumination. So, when you have a small colour difference across a corner, your brain will attribute the whole difference to the change in lighting and viewing angles and not even notice that the colour itself is actually slightly different as it would without that corner being there.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Nestor,

Please for gods sake do not try and paint vinyl siding, yes it can be painted, but what happen is vinyl expands about 3/8 or more over the full walls width, gaps will open up and expose the old siding under the lap joints.
We resided two houses this year that had been painted and it failed, The paint stuck fine it just looked like vertical lines painted all over the house when it got cold.
http://www.vinylsidingoptions....inting-vinyl-siding/

This message has been edited. Last edited by: joecaption,

Yeah, I know. I told them to paint it the same colour as the siding, but they wouldn't listen.

Lynn can get rid of the mold growth by simply putting two coats of good quality exterior latex paint on those areas were mold is a problem. As long as the paint is the same colour as the siding, no one will ever notice that it was even painted, even on a really cold day when the siding peeks out from under the paint.

Lynn: I expect that Joe fully realizes that painting the affected areas with a colour matching exterior latex paint that contains a fungicide to prevent the growth of mildew is the best solution to your problem, but he just has a problem admitting it.

Joe:
The very lifeblood of internet DIY Q&A forums is disagreement between the so called "experts" on that web site. When that happens, both so called "experts" will put forward their very best arguements to defend their positions because they know that the other will find flaws in anything except that best argument. And so, no where else will a newbie learn enough about all aspects of the problem to form their own well informed opinions.

So, when I say that Lynn's best option is to paint the affected areas with a colour matching exterior latex paint containing an effective amount of mildewcide, what say you?

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Nestor,

Hey JoeC, read your private messages

I've never painted vinyl siding mainly because I've never had it, BUT , I think if I had to paint it, I would use an elastomeric paint because of its extraordinay elasticity. I did paint my concrete block home with it because most concret block homes show , what I call " step cracks ", where the block separates from its adjoining block with a fine crack. The reason for the cracking is that the builders here are in a rush and dont dampen the block before setting them and the water from the mortar is sucked out by the block and makes a weak joint, As well as the expansion and contraction with seasonal weather changes Caulking alone before painting with a standard paint only hides it for a short time, so last time I painted I caulked the cracks and used the elastomeric paint, that was a long time ago ( forgot how long ) and so far no cracks showing
I did take some dried paint from a piece of plastic drop sheet and tried stretching it, it did stretch about 3 times its size before tearing
It's for this reason I suggest using this type of paint on the siding if you insist on painting it

If you go on any paint company, siding manufactures or PVC companys web sites and ask what to paint vinyl siding or PVC with there going to suggest 100% Acrilic Latex.

In case anyone ever wondered what the wording "100% Acrylic" on a can of paint really means, it simply means that that the binder resins in the paint are made from the same kind of plastic that Plexiglas is made of. That plastic is called polymethyl methacrylate, or PMMA for short.

PMMA is used to make latex paints, floor "waxes", grout and masonary sealers and women's nail polish among other things. There are LOTS of paint binder resins made from this kind of plastic, and each of them have different characteristics and different prices. So, seeing "100% Acrylic" on a can of paint means about as much as seeing "100% Cow" on a package of meat. It doesn't tell you whether you're buying prime rib or ground beef.

Polyvinyl acetate, or "PVA", is another plastic used to make latex paints and primers. You probably know this plastic better as "white wood glue". If the paint binder resins are made of PVA plastic, it won't be called a "100% Acrylic" paint, but a "Vinyl Acrylic" paint.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Nestor,

thank's for the help i will go to sherman williams after going to lowes and get the bleach or maybe try miradic acid dilutted with low pressure sprayer

Never use muratic acid on vinyl!
Sherwin Williams is going to suggest using Super paint or Duration. Both are great paints but Duration in my opion is over priced.
Let us know in a few year how this worked out for you. If you skip any of the steps I posted to prep the surface the paints just not going to stay stuck.

Keep in mind that mold is only form in a wet place or in a moisture conditions. So make sure that your front of the house is well dry, if water is present then wipe it and make it dry. If mold have formed then spray some vinegar on it and leave it for sometime and then wash it with water and scrub it with sponge or cotton cloth. Do extra care while cleaning mold use mask and gloves.



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This message has been edited. Last edited by: melijack,

Its always good to use vinegar for mold removal. We use vinegar. It's good stuff. You'll want to spray vinegar in all the places where mold grows most easily. This includes places like the sealing underneath your faucets, on your shower curtains, in the grout of your tile floor, or near the edges of the linoleum, if that's what you have for flooring.

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