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old double hung windows no casement help
Feb 13, 2014, 02:57 PMcamille davis
old double hung windows no casement help
so we are wanting to build a tiny house in the back yard..for the kids and us.. I was given a bunch of old wood double hung windows that are in pretty good condition.. a few need reglazing.. I have never seen how a window casement is made.. my question is I know there is a profile on the side im guessing this is to help with the sliding of the windows and keeping them in position. Is there anyone who can explain or have a tutorial on how to build a window casement.. also how to match the existing profile of the stiles.. im also ok with these not being operational.. another words just being put in but don't have to slide.. obviously im very green to this but I learn fast and do best with visual learning.. any help would be appreciated.
Feb 13, 2014, 09:23 PMJaybee
If they will not be operational then it's a fairly simple process of building a 1x frame with solid stops on the exterior and interior. It would still be good to use standard sill material to give a slight pitch at the bottom, but everything else can be stock 1x lumber.
Different story if you want them to operate. Different brands can be unique as to slide style. You may need to locate aluminum or vinyl slides to match the groove pattern on the pieces you have. Unfortunately, buying parts like this piecemeal will probably cost more than buying totally new window units, making it impracticable.
Feb 13, 2014, 10:08 PMcamille davis
these are old wooden windows prob from the 20s... I sort of understand what your saying.. basically i would build a box right? then have a smaller piece that stops the top window from falling forward..out of the window. then a parting stop in the middle.. and then another stop towards the inside.. i prob explained that terrible.. now as far as the sill goes do i just take a piece of wood and cut it on a slight bevel so as to have a slop for drainage?
Feb 13, 2014, 10:35 PMJaybee
You would use stock still material - you can find it in any home store in the trim section. Basically it's a sill piece that is beveled to 10 degrees across the top face. You can get them in wood or composite.
If you are trying to make these non-operating windows look like original operating ones, then yes, build a 1x frame, use smaller stop material (typically 1/2" x 1/2" or 1/2" x 3/4"). The stop will go on the outside to keep the window from pushing out and on the inside to hold it in place. For an original look, the stop would need to be staggered for the upper and lower sash plus you would need to either add a central horizontal cross bar or bond the two sashes together where they overlap.
Feb 14, 2014, 03:34 PMswschrad
I am not a contractor.
but a millwork desk should be able to find some slide material. if not, fake it with strips of nylon against the window slides. I do not see clips or routing to hold sash cord (which connects with sash weights that slide in the wall cavity either side of the window encasement on pulleys in cutouts) so those windows probably slid against longitudinal springs. you would be hard pressed to duplicate them.
unless a good ol' finish carpenter has some pointed advice, I'd consider taking the slides off, chiselling the sashes to accept a knotted sash cord, and build them as 1900s windows. or install them as non-opening windows.
sig: if this is a new economy, how come they still want my old-fashioned money?
Feb 14, 2014, 07:10 PMcamille davis
IM thinking we will probably just install them as non operational.. i have been trying to study how they built the window boxes with the stops.. and middle divider.. im a little confused on the sill.. I know it needs to be on an angle...just trying to figure out how to measure all that out to account for the angle.. need to look at more pictures
Feb 14, 2014, 07:54 PMJaybee
Your frame will be just a box, with the inside measurements being the width of the sashes you have plus the height of two sashes together (counting an overlap of sashes). There is no middle crossbar - what you see it the overlap of the bottom of the top sash and the top of the bottom sash.
The sloped sill is self explanatory once you see the sill material. This is a picture minus a separate nosing piece:http://www.lowes.com/pd_112996...uctId=3319096&rpp=32
The sill gets cut to the width of the sash, as does the top 1x piece. The two sides overlap the sill on the bottom and the top piece on the top. When finished you will have a rectangle where the bottom is slightly sloped because of the pitch made into the sill piece.
From there, you can add stop pieces on the outside and inside to hold the sashes in place.
Feb 14, 2014, 09:52 PMcamille davis
ok thank you. thats what i was thinking.. so when inserting into framing i just shim it correct to make it level... my next question is what is the proper way to seal everything once installed..
Feb 14, 2014, 10:24 PMJaybee
Since you are making this as a single, non-operating unit I would build it all first, then install. If you build your frame with the stops on one side, install the sashes and even the interior stops, the sashes will keep everything perfectly square.
Install the windows and frame in a rough opening that is slightly larger, shim tight and fill any gaps with low expansion foam.
Jumping back to an important step: Measure the thickness of your walls including any exterior sheathing and interior drywall. Normally this is 4-9/16" but this can vary. This dimension will determine the size to rip your 1x for your window frame. When installing, the interior edge of the frame needs to be flush with the face of the drywall. Then, the gap on the side can be covered with trim. Similar process on the outside.
Feb 14, 2014, 10:35 PMcamille davis
thanks for the info.. im still in the research/ planning part of the process. ill be drafting everything in sketchup. so i was thinking the same thing i wanted to make sure i had my window sizes to plan for framing and placement.