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Replacing Vinyl Siding on my Sun-room with drywallGo ![]() | New ![]() | Find ![]() | Notify ![]() | Tools ![]() | Reply ![]() | |
I started a project of removing the Vinyl siding from my sun-room, this was previously the exterior wall when my sun-room was just a porch. I am not sure what I need to do to prep for drywall and if there is something else I need to add/remove. I also am wondering what type of drywall I should be looking at (paperless, standard, greenboard) as my sun-room is not heated/cooled directly. Thanks ![]() | |||
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If your sunroom is a fully enclosed room in that this wall will never see rain or rain splashes then you can use any type of drywall. No other prep is necessary beyond what you have already done. No real reason to use greenboard over regular drywall as there should be no moisture involved. You can make a case to use paperless but be aware that the paperless style has a coarser surface texture than traditional drywall. One thing that you can expect is that after a few seasonal temperature changes, the seams will likely open up. This will be true for any of the drywall types you may use and is caused by the expansion and contraction of the drywall with extreme temperature changes. You see the same thing in garages. One way to avoid this is to use fiberglass mesh tape instead of paper tape when mudding in your drywall.This message has been edited. Last edited by: Jaybee, Jaybee | ||||
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As long as the rooms water tite any sheetrock will work fine. I would concider using sheetrock thick enough so it comes out even with the vinyl around the window so you can add casing around it to dress it up. Around the doors brick moulding you could add back band moulding to cover the gap between the drywall and the moulding. When installing the drywall make sure to install it horizontal for less seams, use 12' pieces if you can get them in the room, install the top piece first tight to the ceiling, and leave about a 1/2 gap at the floor. Also premeasure to make sure the seams are going to land in the middle of a stud not in the space between the studs where that Cellotex is. Cellotex will not hold screws or nails. If you use drywall adhesive you can cut way down on the needed screws for less finishing work. joecaption | ||||
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The window is an 1" thick so should I double layer of 1/2" drywall or should I just get like 5/8" and add some kind of trim? If I go the double drywall route, how does that go up; one directly on top of the other or is there some kind of mud between? Thanks | ||||
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In that case you could use back band to make up the gap and use just 1/2 on the whole wall. http://www.eastcoastmouldings....y=11&subcategory=103 Any real lumber yard should have it. joecaption | ||||
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I have been told that when using fiberglass tape that specific types of mud must be used. As in liteweight "Blue Lid" mud. Anyone care to weight in ? "Why isn't everyday Earth Day ?" | ||||
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You can use any kind of mud with fiberglass tape. I've used lightweight, regular USG and 20 minute powder mix with no problems. There is a slightly different technique when using mesh tape vs paper tape. While the mesh can be easier since it's impossible to get an air pocket behind it it's also a little more tricky getting a smooth run - it just takes a lighter and smoother touch when applying mud. Also, you will still need paper tape in the corners. Jaybee | ||||
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FIRST YOU HAVE A CHOICE TO MAKE REMOVE BRICKMOLD ON DOOR OR OR SHEET ROCK TO IT AND FINISH LIKE A SHOWER OR PULL AND ADD TO JAMB AND INSTALL REGULAR WOOD CASEING SO IT WONT LOOK LIKE THE SUNROOM WAS AN ADD ON TRIM WINDOWS THE SAME AND ID RECOMEND USEING CREEN BOARD DUE TO CHANGE IN IN SEASONS AND NO CLIMATE CONTROLED WILL REDUCE FUTUR MAINTENANCE AND POSSIBLE SWELLING DUE TO MOISTURE CHANGES | ||||
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